If your site does not have enough outbuildings for storing various utensils and necessary tools, then you can easily build a shed with a shed roof with your own hands. If many craftsmen do not have problems with the construction of walls and the arrangement of a lightweight base, then the situation with the roof is a bit more complicated. That is why we will tell you in detail how to make a simple pitched roof over a small outbuilding.

The pitched roof on the barn with your own hands is good not only because it can be done on your own, but also by other positive aspects:

1. The minimum consumption of lumber and their availability is one of the main advantages of the design.
2. The speed and simplicity of construction is especially important when building a barn with your own hands.
3. The guttering roof of the hozblok perfectly resists wind loads. It is quite durable and reliable.
4. Light weight of the entire structure, so you can build a barn from blocks, bricks, wood and other suitable materials. Most often they make a frame shed, because it is quickly mounted.
5. Any suitable roofing materials, including the most inexpensive ones (roofing material, galvanized steel roofing, profiled sheet), can be used as a cover for the gently sloping roof of the shed.

Of course, a single-pitched coating has its drawbacks, but they are more important for a private house, and not for a farm building. So, among the minuses you can name the fact that in such a barn you can’t equip an attic, as well as low aesthetic indicators of a shed roof. However, it can be said with confidence that all these disadvantages do not matter for the barn, which is why many projects of temporary and farm buildings are carried out precisely with a single-pitched roof system.

Since the construction of the shed is usually planned to be carried out not from heavy-duty and massive materials, it is impractical and even dangerous to erect a heavyweight complex roofing structure on them. If you look at some drawings, then these buildings are often made frame. Moreover, the frame of the shed is made of ordinary timber. That is why a light pitched roof on the barn with your own hands is the most suitable option.

Required Materials

We will consider how to make a shed roof using the example of a 3x6 m shed. It is easy to find a suitable shed drawing on the net or make it yourself. We will not describe the process of erecting walls and the foundation of a structure, but we will only consider in detail how to build a shed roof for this hosblock.

When choosing building materials, it is necessary to take into account the structural features of the building. Below is a list of the materials you will need:

• for the manufacture of the rafter system and the Mauerlat, you need to prepare a coniferous timber beam, the moisture content of which is not higher than 15% (the optimal cross-section of the rafter legs is 0.05x0.15 m, the installation step is 90 cm, the cross section of the Mauerlat beam should be 0.1x0.1 m) ;

Attention: all wooden elements of the roof frame must be protected from burning and decay by treating them with antiseptic impregnations and flame retardants.

• fasteners (nails and screws);
• if the length of the rafter legs is not enough to perform the roof overhangs, then you will need mares (this is a bar with a cross section of 0.05x0.12 m, which is attached to the rafters and forms a roof overhang);
• waterproofing material (roofing material or plastic film);
• boards for lathing (it is better to take an unedged board 0.25 cm thick, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is suitable for making a continuous lathing);
• roofing.

If you plan to insulate the barn, then you will need insulation material for the roof. As a roofing insulation, it is better to choose mineral wool. In this case, you will also need to purchase a vapor barrier membrane to protect the insulation from condensation and moisture.

Tip: instead of windows in the barn, you can make gables from translucent structures, for example, polycarbonate. Fronts are called triangular sections of walls under the ramps.

Installation sequence

We will not describe in detail how to properly make the walls of a 3x6 shed with a pitched roof. It is worth noting only that the two opposite longitudinal walls must be of different heights, which will provide the required roof slope.

The process of building a shed with a pitched roof is as follows:

1. First of all, you need to install Mauerlat. This beam will allow you to evenly distribute and transfer the load to the walls of the structure. Mauerlat, located on a higher wall, is called ridge. Before laying the Mauerlat on concrete or brick walls of the building, they must be isolated from the timber using two layers of roofing material. Next, the horizontal beam itself is laid. Using a long drill in the timber and walls, drill holes. After that, anchors are inserted into the holes in the walls, on which the timber is fixed.
2. The rafters are installed in the following sequence:
   1. the first to mount the rear or pediment rafters;
   2. after that, a rope is stretched between them, along which intermediate rafter legs are aligned and set;
   3. for laying the rafters in the Mauerlat beam, washed down (for its manufacture, you need to execute a template that will facilitate and speed up the further process);
   4. the rafters are fastened to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws or nails hammered in the cross direction;
   5. now you can fasten the filly to the rafter legs if you planned their installation.

1. We proceed to the installation of waterproofing. We roll the rolled material along the rafters along the lower overhang of the roof and fasten to the legs with the help of a stapler. We roll the next strip above the first so that we get an overlap of 150 mm. Joints of two strips are additionally glued with tape.
2. To make the ventilation gap, which is needed to ventilate the under-roof space and protect against dampness of the roofing, counter rails are nailed to the rafters directly on top of the waterproofing carpet. For these purposes, you can take a beam 4 cm high.
3. After that, we perform the crate. To make a sparse crate for a profiled sheet, ondulin, slate or metal tile, it is necessary to nail boards across the direction of the rafters in increments of 30-40 cm.For a soft roof, wall profiled sheet or galvanized steel, it is better to make a continuous crate of moisture-proof plywood or OSB. In this case, do not forget to make a gap between sheets of material of 2-3 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.
4. Now you can lay the selected roofing material.
5. If you will insulate the roof, then the insulating product is laid between the rafters on the inside of the structure. It is desirable that the width of the insulation was slightly larger than the pitch of the rafter system. This will allow you to lay the insulation tightly, without gaps and sagging.
6. In case of roof insulation, be sure to use a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from dampness, dust and moisture rising from the room. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the rafters, closing the insulation. In this case, it is necessary to overlap the strips and additionally glue the joint with a sealing tape.

The final step may be the installation of a drain, if you want to make it organized. By the way, this is not necessary for the barn. Such a building may have an unorganized drain. But if water from the roof drains to the track or to the ground, and there is a lot of rain in the region, then an organized system of roof drainage will protect the room from moisture. In case of unorganized drainage, the eaves overhang of the roof must be at least 550 mm.

The first building that appears on the new summer cottage is, of course, a barn, large and spacious. At first, until the bare territory of the summer cottage is “overgrown” with full-fledged outbuildings, a house, a summer kitchen and a garage, a simple shed with a pitched roof will remain the only shelter for inventory, building materials and country property for a long time.

  What option to choose a barn for a summer residence

Depending on the plans for the future development of a summer cottage, the availability of free time and money, there are several ways to solve the problem of a utility room in a suburban area:

• Hire a team and build a capital barn of brick or foam block, with a pitched roof and a basement;
• Pour the concrete foundation for future construction with your own hands, buy a five-ton railway container and install it in a summer cottage instead of a barn;
• To build a regular barn with a pitched roof, 3x6 in size, from a timber and a board, as in the photo.

Of course, experienced summer residents with experience without hesitation will cast their votes in favor of the latter option, this is the most balanced and considered decision.

Advice! Immediately to build a shed from foam blocks on a “clean” site we don’t suck right from the point of view of planning, often farm buildings of this type have to be demolished or transferred in favor of a cottage or a garage.

In addition, the construction of stone, prefabricated, panel sheds, as well as the purchase of a container, will require an order of magnitude greater investment and time than is necessary for a wooden building with a pitched roof and a simple foundation. The main thing is that at considerable costs, tangible advantages over a 3 x 6 single-shed wooden shed do not work.

  The optimal design of a wooden shed 3x6

The most complex element of a makeshift barn is its roof. Choose a pitched roof for your barn, you will not be mistaken. Even experienced craftsmen prefer to put single-pitched roofs on sheds, they are not so beautiful, but easier to build and more reliable in operation. Moreover, the shed roof of the barn with your own hands can be done step by step even with minimal construction experience.

The only prerequisite is the correct orientation of the shed roof and the entire construction of the barn relative to the wind rose, in order to reduce the risk of rainwater flowing under the upper overhang and gables of the roof:

1. The design of the barn, dimensions 3x6 m, with a pitched roof is shown in the drawing;
2. The construction is carried out on a simple columnar foundation of 12 supports. As the material for the pillars, a standard cinder block is used, but it is better to cast concrete supports in the formwork;
3. The basis of a single-shed shed is a frame of boards and timber, the dimensions of the structure are 3x6 meters, with a ceiling height of 2 m and the highest point of rafters 2.7 m;
4. The shed roof is made according to the classical scheme, on hanging rafters with crate battens and flat roofs. As a roofing, you can use corrugated board, ondulin, or make a two-layer version of a rolled material, for example, roofing material.

The construction will be very simple and easy, if the foundation is correctly assembled, then the wooden frame box with a single-pitched roof can easily withstand the wind of 18-25 m / s. If there are no strong winds on the terrain in which the shed is planned to be installed, then during the construction of the walls you can restrict yourself to vertical drains from the board and timber, as in the drawing. For open areas, vertical support legs are recommended to be strengthened with side struts, as in the photo.

The same goes for the construction of a pitched roof. For a quiet area, you can build a pent roof without the use of ceiling beams, but in this case, the upper wall trim and the Mauerlat will need to be backed up with additional vertical supports from the timber. For windy terrain, a shed roof must be reinforced with floor beams and supports in the middle of the rafters.

  Do-it-yourself shed with a pitched roof

• For the frame, material with a section in 50x150mm - 14 pcs., 25x100 - 23 pcs., 50x100 -19 pcs.;
• For the floor board size 25x100 mm - 27 pcs.;
• For battens and roof supports, 43 boards with a cross section of 25x100 mm are needed.

All joints and joints are made by joiner black self-tapping screws 50 mm, 70 mm and 110 mm. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use ordinary nails and building corners, but such savings are not always justified.

  We make the foundation for a 3x6 shed

After choosing the place of construction of the shed, it will be necessary to plan and remove the soil on the site with a size of at least 3x6 m. It makes no sense to make a construction site of a larger size. In order not to pester the vegetation, the cleared space can be covered with salt and sand.

After marking the location of the supports, at the points of installation of the poles, we dig 12 holes, 15 cm deep and the size of a standard cinder block. At the bottom of the mini-pits, we pour a mixture of crushed stone and sand with a 5 cm layer, after which we lay out the column supports on the masonry mortar with PVA additive from the cinder block.

Before laying out, you need to pull horizontal cords, along which you can control the height of each support so that the entire supporting surface of the posts is in the same horizontal plane.

After a day, you can install the strapping beam. All corner joints and T-shaped inserts are made with sawing the ends of the “half-tree”, each connection is reinforced with screws screwed into the beam at different angles.

  We assemble the frame and the pent roof

In the next step, you will need to install supporting vertical racks, in the drawing they are highlighted in orange. Next, we sew up the floor and lay the rafters of the shed roof.

We make the central support racks from 50x100 boards, for the back wall you will need to cut three racks of 220 mm each, for the front wall - four racks of 250 mm each. Each support is pre-fixed on the lower harness with one self-tapping screw, then we set the exact horizontal position on the construction level and additionally fasten it with small half-meter struts, as in the photo.

After all the racks are installed, we strengthen them with additional temporary struts and carry out the tying of the upper tier of the frame under the future gable roof. To give the entire structure of the barn additional rigidity, before starting the assembly of the gable roof elements, it is necessary to sew up the floor with a grooved board.

Further, all installed elements, floor boards, rafters, lathing material, side racks, lower and upper piping must be treated with an antiseptic and preservative. During the time that the rafters and roofs of the shed roof will be assembled, the procedure must be repeated twice.

For the overhang of a single-pitched roof, installation of rafters and battens, you will need to fix an additional horizontal Mauerlat beam, as in the diagram.

Washed down the seat on the rafter beam is carried out according to the markup or according to the prepared template. After installing and leveling the position of each beam, it is recommended to fill the space between the beams with short boards, they will fix the rafters from horizontal displacement and at the same time strengthen the base of the single-pitched roof.

  Roofing and finishing work

At the final stage, the rafters of the shed roof are sewn with a batten board. If bituminous materials - a flexible tile and roofing material will be used for the roof of the shed, it will be necessary to lay additional OSB sheets on the boards or to fill the crate with a solid wooden lining.

The easiest way to cover a pitched roof with corrugated board. The metal surface will withstand any cataclysms that may occur in the summer cottage, and it is much easier and faster to lay and fasten the roofing material than euro slate or roofing material. As a waterproofing, a plastic film is laid, the edges of which will be released from under the canopies and nailed to the upper edge of the wooden walls of the shed.

Laying the roof on a pitched roof begins with the lower left sheet, as in the diagram. Each element is joined with the previous one in a row in an overlap of two waves, an overlap of 15-20 cm is made on the bottom sheet. The places of overlap, the lower and upper edge are necessarily punched with roofing nails with a silicone washer.

On the sides of the roofing cake, wind strips are nailed to protect the pitched roof from water leakage and gusts of wind. A similar rail for the drainage gutter device is nailed under the lower overhang. The upper overhang of a single-pitched roof is protected by a screen of two wooden planks.

The assembled frame of the shed, as a rule, is not insulated for the winter, therefore, as a material for wall sewing, you can use a lining, an ordinary edged board or OSB sheet panels. To fill the cladding, you will need to install additional vertical slats and struts on the walls. The joints and cracks between the OSB boards and the edged board must be blown with mounting foam, the excess PUF should be cut off and it must be painted over with weather-resistant paint.

  Conclusion

The selected option of a shed with a pitched roof, 3x6 m in size, can stand up to 15 years without repair, subject to a competent choice of protective paints and varnishes. This design has one indisputable advantage - a shed made of timber with a single-pitched roof can be relatively easily dismantled and moved to a new place after a summer house or a new shed of foam blocks is built.

A barn is a farm building really necessary for any summer cottage or household plot. It is easy to build it yourself in the shortest possible time. With our advice, this process will go on with a bang!

  Materials for the construction of the barn - we are looking for inexpensive and durable

The building of interest to us is in most cases used to store a variety of household equipment, building materials, work tools and other trifles. In fact, the barn performs a strictly utilitarian function. For this reason, as a rule, no special requirements are made to its external appearance. For the owner of a suburban area, it is much more important to build a barn quickly and cheaply. And modern technology allows you to perform all construction work in a matter of weeks, and even days.

Note that in some cases you want to give your barn an attractive look that matches the style and decoration of a residential building, to harmoniously fit it into your existing landscape design. With this task, you can also cope with a relatively small cash outlay. It will be necessary to simply pick up the lining, which has an affordable price and at the same time quite accurately repeats the look of the expensive finishing materials used to equip the house. Siding is ideal for such purposes. It comes in a variety of textures. You can choose the finish of natural stone, brick, wooden beam and so on.

The most simple and inexpensive option for the construction of a hozblok is considered. It involves the construction of a special skeleton of metal or wooden elements and its subsequent external lining with one or another material. With a competent approach to business and choosing a beautiful finish, a frame shed can become a real decoration of a suburban area. It is also important that such a structure can always be transformed, repaired. To do this, you only need to change the skin without touching the frame itself.

Buildings made of timber and planks are also popular. They also require the construction of a frame skeleton (wooden), which is then sheathed with wood products. Such structures can be placed on wide bars or on special pallets, using them instead of the standard foundation. And the decoration is allowed to produce the most inexpensive board - unedged (people call it croaker). The downside of such buildings is their fragility. They are operated no more than 5-6 years. Then they have to be rebuilt.

Long-term business buildings require large construction costs. If you need a fireproof and maximum reliable barn in operation, build it from brick. Such a structure can be used for breeding poultry, animals, for the installation of a full bathroom or shower. Brick structures are installed on solid foundations and serve for decades. Brick can be replaced with foam blocks in demand today. It is easier to work with them, they are inexpensive, have high thermal insulation characteristics. True, the appearance of the foam blocks is not the best - the gray color can hardly be called presentable. The problem can be solved simply by decorating the walls of the building with decorative plaster or siding.

  Frame construction - the best option for self-construction

In the vast majority of cases, home craftsmen decide to build frame wooden hozbloks in the country. This is quite logical. The construction is inexpensive and durable, it has a completely elegant appearance. All work is done without any problems by hand, and the construction itself is fast. The standard dimensions of such sheds are 3x6 m. We recommend making the roof of the simplest frame structure a single-pitched. Its design is simple and understandable to anyone who has minimal experience in independently carrying out construction work.

The process of erecting a 3x6 m economic building with a shed roof will be described in our article. First, we give a list of building materials necessary for the construction of buildings of this type. Immediately determine the amount of required materials. To do this, draw up a drawing of the barn and its roof. Then we will know for sure how many boards, bars and other products we need.   We acquire the following materials:

• Six bars 10x10 cm for 6 m and eight for 3. These products will go to the lower and upper trim.
• Nine vertical struts-supports of the already indicated cross section of 2.5 m each plus two more for the arrangement of the doorway.
• Two dozen boards 4x15 cm. They are necessary for the construction of the floor. You can immediately buy OSB boards. These products are ideal for arranging a fine subfloor.
• Four boards 5x10 cm by 4 m. We use them for the manufacture of rafters.
• A half-board of boards 2.2x10 cm is the material for the crate.
• Six edged boards 2.5x10 cm by 3 m. They are installed at the joints of the walls of the barn and its rafter system. In common parlance, such boards are called windscreens.
• OSB boards or chipboards, fiberboards for the construction of rough ceiling. Instead of these products it is allowed to use plywood sheets (multilayer).

All boards and beams are processed in an obligatory manner with an antiseptic. And when choosing lumber, we pay attention to the fact that there are no areas with blue, large knots, places corroded by insects, woodcutters, and other clearly visible defects. An important point. The roof slope of the described farm buildings is performed in different ways. We can cut to the required length the same vertical supports installed on the back of the barn, or increase the front posts using 5x5 cm wooden blocks. Choose your own option. The result in any case will be identical - the required slope will be provided.

We also pre-purchase hardware, without which it is problematic to build a hosblock. Here we take into account the following. If we connect the structural elements “butt-to-butt”, we will need steel strips and corners. But the fastening type "in the paw" is provided with nails. At the corners of the frame, the bars are fixed with metal plates (they have the shape of the letter G). Additionally we get screws,.

  We choose a place and make the foundation - a reliable foundation for construction

The selection of a place for the construction of an economic structure is a rather important stage of the planned event. Experts advise placing the barn so that it does not spoil the view of the yard (plot). The best place is behind the house. It is important, in addition, to provide easy access to the structure under construction, since you will store various objects in it (including quite large ones). One more tip. Try to find a site for a business building on some (at least small) hill. Then you can not be afraid that during a flood or heavy rain the do-it-yourself shed will flood with water.

Having decided on the place, we proceed to the construction of a reliable foundation for the construction. The foundation is allowed to be made by any - slab, pile, tape. It is most rational to equip the last of these. The strip foundation is characterized by a high level of strength and reliability. It raises the floor of the structure above the soil surface by 0.4-0.5 m, it is easily poured without the involvement of specialists.   The phased arrangement of the tape base is performed as follows:

1. 1. Using a thin cord and pegs, we mark the site.
2. 2. A swarm 0.3-meter wide pit 0.4-0.5 m deep.
3. 3. We clear the bottom of the trench, align it well.
4. 4. Pour sand into the moat, spray it with water, and ram.
5. 5. On a layer of sand we lay a film of polyethylene.
6. 6. We mount a wooden formwork along the edge of the prepared moat. Its height is calculated taking into account the size of the basement of the barn. We strengthen the walls of the shuttering structure with spacers. If this is not done, when pouring concrete there is a chance that the boards will corrode to the sides.
7. 7. We knit the reinforcing cage (metal bars) with a wire and install it in the pit.
8. 8. We fill in concrete. We recommend using a dry mixture (sold dry in building stores, diluted with water) or a ready-made solution (ordering a concrete truck). You can mix the composition yourself, using sand, gravel and cement of the 250th grade, if you know all the proportions.

Concrete should be poured in dry weather. It is advisable to submit the entire volume of the solution in one session. If you fill the foundation with parts, with tangible interruptions in operation, air voids are guaranteed to appear in the base. They will significantly reduce the strength and reliability of the finished structure.

The concrete mix hardens within 20–28 days. After this time, you can remove the formwork and continue to work. We put waterproofing on a concrete base (no need to splurge on newfangled moisture protectors, we use a usual roofing material). We mount 2-3 rows of masonry on it according to the standard method, which involves dressing individual products. Next, along the perimeter of the structure, we bookmark the bars (wood) every 140-150 cm. These elements are needed for mounting the lower trim on them.

Bricklaying is carried out according to the level. The horizontal structure must be strictly observed, otherwise the basement erected at this stage will not be able to become a reliable support for the frame building. After installing the last row, we clean off the excess mortar from the masonry, align the seams, wait 2-3 days until the concrete hardens.

  Frame assembly - a sequence of actions for dummy builders

We lay on the frozen basement two layers of roofing sheets. We take a bar 10x10 cm and begin the installation of the lower harness. At the corners of its joints we perform "in the paw." Cut out the grooves in the bars (at the ends). The depth of the latter is half the thickness of the wooden blank, the length is 10 cm. With these dimensions of the recess, we get a perfectly even angle of the elements to be joined. For mortgages in brickwork, the binding is fixed with nails. Important! Fasteners are driven in at an angle (obliquely). At the same time, the horizontal laying of the harness is checked by the level after each nail.

Now we equip the floor base of the barn. We use logs (boards 5x10 cm), install them every 0.5–0.6 m on the lower beam, on the edge and fix with nails. Immediately recommend making a rough floor from old lumber or plywood sheets. So it will be easier for us to carry out subsequent work. After completion of the construction, the rough foundation is easily dismantled or covered with other finishing materials.

Next, we attach a 10x10 cm bar to the lower harness (side). We fix it with 15-centimeter nails or a L-shaped metal fastener. On a timber fixed in this way, every 150-200 cm we install vertical posts. In addition, we fix the supports with the help of jibs (boards 4x10 cm) mounted diagonally. After we put the top beam, these elements are dismantled. There are no problems with this operation.

We need to understand the rules for installing vertical racks for doors that will lead to the barn. Everything is simple here. If the door structure is in the middle, we mount two vertical supports. There is another economical option. We plan to install a one-way door. Then the function of one of the posts will be performed by a vertical corner beam. So, it will be necessary to mount only one support for the door. Now we install the bar of the upper harness by analogy with the lower one and proceed to the construction of the roof.

  Shed roof - decent quality with seeming simplicity

We build the hozblok further. Since we chose a single-pitched roof structure, we need to increase the front of the barn until a slope of 20–25 ° is obtained. How to do this, we have already described (trimming the rear supports or building up the front bars). After that, we equip the rafter system. We use 5x10 cm boards. We put them on the edge, we nail the nails in an oblique face (rafters can also be fixed with iron staples). The length of the rafters is taken so that it provides (on each side of the building) a 40-50-centimeter overhang of the roof. In our case, the length of the boards is 4 m. You can take products of a slightly shorter length (3.8–3.9 m).

We make a crate on the roof. Its type (solid or with gaps) depends on the material that will be used as a roof covering. If the roof is sheathed with boards, the crate is made sparse. And when installing soft coatings, as well as bituminous tiles, it is better to equip a continuous structure. Then we lay waterproofing membranes or roofing material on the crate, fix the moisture-proof material and install the selected roofing material.

It remains to give the completed structure a finished look - sheathe it from the outside with suitable products. Frame sheds are usually finished with a planed board or profiled sheets (budget options) or lining. In the latter case, you need to spend a little more money. The lining will have to be fixed on some basis. For example, 9.5 mm thick OSB boards. Inside the barn can be completely omitted. It would be wiser to install shelves and racks in it for storing various things, install electrical outlets, conduct light to make the operation of the structure as comfortable as possible.

The construction of the frame type of timber and boards with a pitched roof is erected. You can use it! At the same time, remember that every year it is recommended to carefully inspect the barn. If any defects (holes in the roof, walls, rotting of the floor covering) are detected, they should be immediately eliminated. In this case, the building will serve you for many years.

In the household of any private home ownership there is always garden equipment and tools that need to be stored somewhere. A lawn mower or garden sprayer with chemicals has no place in a residential building. Where to put these necessary things so that they do not succumb to environmental influences and do not litter the territory of the yard? You can solve this problem by building a small frame shed with a pitched roof.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood frame construction

The construction of a frame outbuilding made of wooden blocks has several advantages:

1. In specialized construction stores, you can purchase ready-made parts for assembling the frame construction of the barn.
2. It is not difficult to build such a structure yourself, since the assembly of parts occurs according to the principle of the designer. For this, it is not necessary to have special knowledge in construction. All elements and connections of the frame are sized, and the presence of instructions will make the construction process easier.
3. A frame wooden shed will last for many years if appropriate care is taken after it, and all the rules were followed during its construction.
4. The construction of the structure does not take much time. Usually one week is enough to build the entire barn. At this time, it includes: installation of the foundation, assembly of all elements of the frame, wall cladding, insertion of doors and windows, roofing.
5. Wooden structural parts are easily amenable to additional processing.
6. When building a shed with a pitched roof, there is no need to install a rafter system.
7. The frame structure of the barn is easy to disassemble and re-erect in another place. In this case, we are talking about light buildings, without a foundation.
8. The cost of buying materials for such a structure is much less than, for example, brick. Many are of the opinion that the wooden structure is short-lived and unreliable. However, if we take into account the life of these parts and the money spent on materials, then this option is much more profitable.

The disadvantages of this design are as follows:

1. Wood elements are flammable material.
2. Parts of the frame can be rotted and damaged by wood-boring insects. To avoid this, all elements of the tree must be additionally treated with antiseptic pastes, organic solutions or oily antiseptics.
3. Wood, depending on its moisture content, tends to dry out, swell, warp and crack over time.

Preparation for construction: drawings of the future barn, dimensions

Before starting the construction of a frame shed, it is necessary to take into account some aspects of its construction:

• The barn, no matter how neatly it was built, remains an outbuilding that does not particularly fit into the architecture of a residential building. Accordingly, this building is better to erect in the backyard.
• Entrance must be free. This will become especially convenient when it will be necessary to bring large items or furniture into it, in case of repair in the house.
• It is better to position the shed on a hill (supports, piles, blocks). The distance between the base of the structure and the ground will prevent: from decay of its wooden parts, the appearance of moisture in the room and damage to metal equipment by corrosion.
• It is necessary to carefully design the barn, so that in the future there is no need to make extensions to it. It will be convenient to divide it into two rooms: in one you can equip a workshop, and in the second - directly the barn or the chicken coop.

Two rooms of the barn will allow using them for different purposes.

• Land at the place of future construction needs to be leveled.
• It is necessary to determine what materials the walls and floors will be sheathed. What will be the interior decoration and which roof to apply.

The length, width and height of the future barn is selected individually, depending on the location. For such purposes, medium-sized buildings are most suitable (see image).

A variant of a frame shed with typical parameters

Another option frame shed

Selection of materials and calculation

High-quality procurement planning of all necessary materials will save you from unforeseen waste in the future.

When erecting the frame of the shed, the following materials are required:

• For the lower and upper harness you need: six bars 6 meters long with a section of 100x100 mm and eight bars - 3 meters each with a section of 100x100 mm.

When buying timber and boards, you should pay attention to the degree of their moisture does not exceed 22%.

• For flooring, boards with a section of 40x150 mm are required, in an amount (minimum) of 20 pieces. As a final floor OSB sheets are used.
• For vertical supports, bars of 100x100 mm are required, in the amount of 12 pieces, each of which is 2.5 m long. Two of these beams will be used as a doorway.

Wooden surfaces should not contain knots, cracks, mold, or damage from woodworm insects.

• There are two ways to tilt the roof: in the first case, from 4 to 6 bars with a length of 50 cm and a section of 100x100 cm are needed, in the second case, the supports on which there will be a slope should be initially shorter.
• For the crate, a board with a cross section of 22x100 mm is required, in an amount of 16-18 pieces.
• For a draft ceiling, you can use multilayer plywood, particleboard, fiberboard or OSB sheets.
• To fasten the bars at the corners in a “paw” way, nails are needed, and “into the wood floor” - metal corners and trims.

Nails are selected in length longer than the thickness of the board, so that they pierce it and enter the next. Such a connection will be much stronger.

• When working, you will also need screws, screws, L-shaped metal plates to fix the beam in the corners.
• In case of shed frame insulation, a heat-insulating layer (polystyrene, mineral wool or foam) may be needed, waterproofing (foamed foamed polyethylene), vapor barrier (bitumen), roofing material, polyurethane foam.

Necessary tools

To build a frame shed, you will need the following tools:

1. Shovel (for digging holes under a columnar foundation, it is better to use a helical shovel).
2. Yardstick.
3. Marking cord with coated thread.
4. Lead pencil.
5. Construction level (it is more convenient to use from 50 to 200 cm).
6. Square and ruler.
7. Clerical knife (for cutting insulation).
8. Laser level (with the help of this tool a perfectly flat plane is determined).
9. Chisel.
10. Electric drill.
11. Circular saw (with its help it is convenient to cut boards of various lengths and sizes).
12. Cordless screwdriver (for attaching plywood, boards and OSB sheets to the ceiling, walls and floor).
13. Electric Planer (required when calibrating boards).
14. Screwdriver.
15. All-metal carpentry hammer.
16. Sledgehammer (used when fitting boards).
17. Hand clamps (for clamping boards in different places).
18. Hacksaw for wood (for cutting grooves).
19. Construction stapler (for fastening with a wooden frame of waterproofing and vapor barrier).
20. Carpenter's ax.
21. Construction plumb.
22. Nails For a frame shed, from 2 thousand to 4 thousand nails are needed. In this case, three types are used:

• GOST 4028–63 Construction black and zinc nails. Zinc is used for outdoor work with wooden parts, and black for the installation of internal materials.
• GOST 4029–63 Zinc nails for fixing roofing material and other sheet materials.
• DIN 1152 Galvanized nails for fastening tongue-and-groove boards, front panels and finishing surfaces.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a frame shed with a pitched roof

When all the calculations are made, the construction project is ready and the necessary materials are purchased, you can proceed to the construction of the frame shed.

Foundation. Which is better and how to do

The basis for the frame is the foundation. For frame sheds and utility blocks, the most commonly used are tape, wooden or columnar foundations.

To protect the wooden frame of the shed from moisture, you can install a strip foundation. To do this, a concrete base is made with a height of 40-50 cm. It is important to know that this type of foundation is not suitable for sedimentary and peat soil. In these cases, screw piles are used.

For a strip foundation, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter, 30–40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand and rammed. The result should be a sand cushion 10 cm thick. A waterproofing layer is necessarily laid on the sand cushion, which will prevent the absorption of liquid concrete into the sand.

After that, a wooden or metal construction of the formwork is made. It should rise above the ground and be equal to the height of the basement. For the strength of the construction, the formwork is fixed with struts and clamps, and its upper part can be strengthened with supports. On the waterproofing layer, reinforcement 10–12 mm thick is laid, which is connected by wire.

The formwork panels fix the cement substance until it hardens.

When the frame from the reinforcement is ready, it is poured with M200–250 brand concrete.

Concrete pouring should be done immediately for the entire perimeter. In order to avoid cracks when hardening concrete, it is not recommended to fill it in rainy weather or extreme heat,

Concrete hardens for about two weeks and is gaining about 70% strength by this time.

Shallow strip foundation suitable for small buildings

When erecting a wooden foundation, larch logs with a thickness of about 300 mm are used, which are processed at least 2-3 times with bitumen.

Dig holes with a depth of 150 cm and a diameter of 30–40 cm in the ground. Sand 10 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the hole and compacted. Each log from its base is covered with a waterproofing layer of 140-145 cm. The resulting wooden pile is placed in the ground. The gaps between the waterproofing and the wall of the hole are covered with earth. To thoroughly compact the soil around the pile, it is watered and tamped. For reliability, you can fill the hole with concrete.

The use of wooden piles may be an alternative solution for the installation of the foundation

The most commonly used columnar foundation in the construction of a frame shed. To do this, it is necessary to mark it on the ground, using a cord. Along the perimeter of the marking and in each of its corners, dig holes 30-40 cm deep.

With the help of a stretched cord, the marking will be more accurate

It is better to dig a hole with a depth of 70 cm or more, as this is below the freezing point. Sand is poured on the bottom to get a layer of 10-15 cm, which must be tamped. For reliability, you can pour a layer of gravel 10 cm thick. After that, lay a brick, cemented with cement mortar. For the barn use masonry of two bricks per layer. If the structure is larger, the columnar foundation is made of three or more bricks.

The most commonly used type of foundation when building a frame shed

Brickwork must be treated with a bituminous waterproofing layer.

To ensure a flat surface, all poles must be checked for level.

The space between the brickwork and the ground must be covered with sand or filled with cement-sand mixture. An alternative to the column foundation of masonry are hollow concrete blocks 400x200x200 in size. The voids in the blocks are filled with cement mortar.

Video: installation of the foundation

Building frame

Now you can begin to create the frame of the barn. On each brick pillar, it is necessary to put two layers of roofing material - to protect the bottom of the wooden frame from moisture.

After that proceed to the installation of the lower harness. For this, a beam with a section size of 100x100 mm is required. Beams and logs are collected from a beam of 50x100 mm. The distance between them should not exceed 60 cm.

Beams and logs are connected by nails in the "on the floor of a tree"

Vertical posts from a bar 100x100 mm are fixed on L-shaped metal joints or ordinary nails that need to be hammered obliquely. The distance between the beams should be no more than 1.5 m. For structural stability, the diagonal beams are temporarily reinforced with 40x100 mm boards.

Vertical and upper beams are fixed by L-shaped joints

The construction of a frame shed is carried out not only with the help of wooden beams. Widely used for its manufacture from a metal profile pipe.

The ease of assembly of this design attracts builders

This version of the material for the building frame has several advantages:

1. The assembly of the profile base is done without dirt and construction debris in the yard.
2. Installation and dismantling of such a building will not take much time.
3. If necessary, a metal profile shed is easy to move.
4. For such a design, the foundation is optional. It is enough to pour gravel on a flat area.
5. To withstand the heaviness of snow and withstand gusts of strong winds, reinforcement reinforcing the frame will help.
6. Due to the varied color, the shed made of shaped pipes has an aesthetic appearance.
7. The design with a metal frame is very practical, since it does not require processing of its parts and elements with antiseptic agents. It is enough to paint it once.

If the building will be subject to increased load pressure in the future, then the frame is constructed of more durable pipes. In this case, pipes with a wall thickness of 8 mm and a cross section of 100x100 mm are used for the lower strapping and racks. For additional struts, a profile with a section of 60x60 mm is used.

Particular attention should be paid when flooring profile logs under the rough floor. The distance between them should not be more than 60 cm. The lags are fixed to the lower harness by welding.

After that, they proceed to the installation of the interfloor overlap, which is a frame structure from the profile, as well as beams. From the bottom, ceiling cladding is attached to these elements.

The final stage of the construction of the structure from the profile pipe is the assembly of the rafter system.  This structural element can be both an integral and a separate part of the entire structure. The main supporting part of the roof is a powerful channel to which other elements are attached.

After carrying out all welding work, they begin to finish.

The construction of the floor and walls (knots and jibs)

When constructing the foundation, you must first make a rough floor. To do this, wooden logs are covered with OSB boards or plywood sheets with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm. Then the entire surface is covered with a waterproofing layer, on which the finishing floor is installed. It is convenient to use tongue-and-groove boards as this floor covering. They have recesses and protrusions at the edges, which are ideal for butt assembly. They are usually made from coniferous wood. The resin contained in this wood makes it waterproof. Laying the floor with dowel boards is like installing a laminate.

A tight connection of the boards is ensured thanks to the protrusions and cutouts at the edges

After that, you can proceed to installing the walls of the barn. To further its construction was strong and stood for a long time, temporary and permanent jibs are cut into the frame.

Strengthening racks with permanent and temporary mowing will provide additional strength in places of increased weight load

Cuts are applied without fail if the walls will not be sheathed with plywood or OSP-3. The use of slab sheathing is five times stronger than jibs (if OSB or 12 mm plywood is used). As jibs, a board with a cross section of 25x100 mm or 50x100 mm is used, when a more stable design is required. The length of such a board by 30 ° should exceed the height of the wall. Temporary jibs are used until the upper logs are installed. They help to fix the given position of the walls and vertical beams.

Before starting their installation, the corners of the structure are aligned. In this case, it is convenient to use the bubble or laser level. The installation step of temporary jibs is from 1.2 to 1.5 m. They will also help correct structural defects if you use them as a lever.

When erecting the frame structure of the shed, it is important to provide for the correct fastening of the jibs and joints:

1. The angle of installation of the jib must be 45 ° (this is the ideal angle to ensure maximum rigidity). In places of construction where it is difficult to withstand, for example, windows and doors, 60 ° is allowed.
2. The use of hollow jibs is permissible only in small structures (sheds, outbuildings).
3. They should fit tightly (without gaps and gaps) to the surfaces of the uprights and the upper floor.
4. For jibs, it is necessary to make grooves in the uprights, the upper and lower harness. The depth of the groove is done depending on the thickness of the jib. In a metal structure, they must go deeper into the profile of the racks.
5. The joints of the beams at the corners of the frame are laid in the "wood floor" or "paw" way. In the first case, cuts of 50x50 mm to half of its thickness are made on both sides of the log. In the second case, similar cuts are made, but having a bevel. If necessary, the junction of two bars is processed with a chisel.

Such joints are fixed with nails and l-shaped joints.

Floor insulation

Insulate the floors of the frame shed with the following materials:

• Mineral wool.

This method is very popular because of the ease of installation and relatively low price. Mineral wool is usually sold in packs of several plates with a size of 1000x600x50 mm or 1200x600x50 mm or in rolls. A waterproofing layer (glassine, ruberoid or ordinary plastic film) is laid on the floors of the shed, onto which a wooden crate of boards with a cross section of 10x120 mm and a step width of 60 cm is placed. Slabs of mineral wool are placed in the compartments. All wooden elements of the crate, before laying cotton wool, must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent rot. For additional insulation of the floor, a double layer of such plates is used. During installation, the insulation must be below the level of the crate. Mineral wool cannot be tamped, as it will lose its heat-insulating property. To prevent cotton wool getting wet, a layer of polyethylene is laid on top, fixed to the staples with a stapler. Then the entire surface is covered with dowel boards, OSB sheets or plywood.

• Styrofoam.

Insulation of the floor with this material is carried out on lags. As in the case of mineral wool, a wooden crate is required, under which they lay a waterproofing layer. The width of the step between the boards is about 60 cm. The thickness of the foam boards should be at least 10 cm. This material is very convenient, since it does not deform. For polystyrene, fungus and mold are not terrible. Foam boards must be laid tightly. If gaps remain, they can be filled with foam.  After it dries, sheets of plywood or dowel boards are laid on top.

• Expanded clay.

To insulate the floor of the shed with expanded clay, it is necessary to cover the lower formwork with a waterproofing material, on top of which OSB boards are laid. Then a wooden crate of boards with a cross section of 10x150 mm is installed on this surface. Expanded clay is poured into each section of this design. Its layer should not be less than 10-15 cm, since a smaller thickness will not give the desired warming effect. Expanded clay should be leveled so that it does not rise above the bars of the crate. Then, a vapor barrier layer is laid on top of: a diffuse membrane, a water-based bitumen-polymer cold emulsion, a polyethylene or polypropylene film. After that, OSB sheets are attached with screws to the lags. The finishing floor is laid on top.

Materials for floor insulation in the frame shed

  This is an ecological material, the production of which does not use chemical additives. This material is easy to give the right shape. An inexpensive and reliable way of floor insulation

Heat insulation for walls

To warm the walls of the frame shed, mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) are most often used.

• Wall insulation with mineral wool.

Mineral wool wall decoration is not much different from a similar method of floor insulation, but has its own nuances. On the inside of the barn, it is covered with a vapor barrier material (foil polyethylene), on top of which plywood or OSB sheets are fixed. Outside, on a mineral wool, perpendicular to the base, wooden lining of boards with a cross section of 20x40 mm can be installed. These boards serve as a ventilation gap to which the external finish is mounted. Sometimes a layer of OSB sheets is installed in front of the waterproofing layer (exterior decoration).

• Penoplex.

To insulate the walls with this material, it is necessary to select plates with a thickness of at least 6 cm. As in the previous methods, a wooden crate with a step of 60 cm is needed, under which a waterproofing layer is placed. It is more convenient to fix foam-foam slabs on polyurethane adhesive (it is well compatible with expanded polystyrene) or on metal anchors with plastic dowels. The joints of the plates are additionally fixed to the mounting foam or metal tape. The wall outside can be insulated with an additional layer of foam, on which the external finishing material is installed.

When the walls are fixed with anchors or dried glue, a vapor barrier is placed on top. In this method of insulation, foamed foil polyethylene 3 mm thick is used. As a replacement, you can use a polyethylene foil film. Top fix the finishing layer.

Materials for wall insulation of the frame shed

  Lightweight cotton wool is easy to install. This material has a denser structure than polystyrene.

Video: all stages of construction

A frame shed in your home will always be convenient for storing equipment and old things. Equipping its premises under the workshop, you can engage in carpentry and repair work, while your yard will remain clean. The insulated walls, floors and roof will become comfortable conditions for keeping pets and birds in the cold season.