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The gypsum fiber sheet used today is different, it all depends on its application. There are those that can only be used for dry rooms, and there are those that are suitable for high humidity conditions. Manufacturers offer ordinary gypsum fiber board and moisture resistant, which is able to perfectly replace even tiles in industrial premises, characterized by high constant humidity (before installation, you must putty the walls!).
Characteristics of gypsum fiber.
Besides, gVL sheets divided into standard and small format. The dimensions of standard slabs are: 2500 mm - length, 1200 mm - width, 10/12 mm - thickness. Small-format sheets have dimensions: 1500 mm - length, 1000 mm - width, 10/12 millimeters - thickness. It is very convenient to mount such small sheets on the walls in bathrooms and toilets using the frameless method (after that, the walls should be putty with special moisture-resistant compounds).
All sheets that are used for wall mounting are marked on the back side with the characteristics of the sheet, its date of manufacture, and the name of the company that produced the material. The marking must contain information on the type of the longitudinal edge of the slab, the exact name of the material (normal or waterproof), the dimensions of one sheet in millimeters; designation of the group to which the material belongs.
Mounting
Wall priming scheme.
Installation of GVL can be carried out on cleaned walls or after filling them (this depends on the condition of the wall). To do this, use the glue method, when the plates are glued to the surface using gypsum putty or special glue. This can be done in several ways, depending on the curvature of the wall, in some cases it is necessary to putty them first.
For the frame method, a special galvanized metal profile or wooden slats are used, to which the sheet is screwed.
The process of laying gypsum fiber sheets
Do-it-yourself installation of gypsum fiber sheets on walls can be done using two methods: frameless and frame. In the first case, the GVL plates are glued to the surface, in the second, a special frame is first installed with their own hands, to which the sheets are screwed. Let's take a closer look at both methods of laying.
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DIY frameless installation
Stages of laying gvl on the floor
For GVL sheets, the frameless method is rarely used, but for the walls of residential premises, it is gypsum fiber boards that are the most preferred option. Installation by this method is carried out in the following sequence:
- If the unevenness of the walls is up to 4 mm, the sheets must be glued directly to the surface of the walls using gypsum putty, which is applied in longitudinal ridges with a rather thin layer along the perimeter of the gypsum board, after which the sheet is glued to the wall.
- If the irregularities are 4-20 mm, the sheets are laid with a special glue, for example, Perflix. The composition is applied to the surface of the gypsum fiber board in the middle and along the perimeter of the slab in increments of 30-35 centimeters.
- If the irregularities are very large, from 20 to 40 mm, then the installation is more difficult. First, with the help of special glue, strips of gypsum fiber board with a width of 100 mm are glued to the surface of the walls with their own hands, and only then the boards themselves are glued to them with the help of gypsum putty.
Installation by a frameless method is carried out as follows:
Drywall fixing scheme for glue.
- The installation must be carried out before the final floor covering is laid. The room temperature must be between + 10 ° C. The sheets themselves should be kept in the room where the installation will take place for two to three days before work. The humidity and temperature regime must be maintained for the entire installation period; for very humid rooms, such as bathrooms, it is better to use moisture-resistant gypsum boards.
- If necessary, the walls must be prepared, cleaned from the remnants of the old coating. If the surface delaminates, reinforcement measures should be taken. The wall is putty, it should dry, after which you can proceed with the installation.
- After the puttying is completed, the verticality of the walls and the presence of irregularities should be corrected with the help of the building level (the choice of laying method depends on this). The marking of the location of the plates is applied to the surface. If necessary, the walls are treated with a primer.
- GVL plates are cut out, holes are cut into them for switches, sockets. The height of each piece should be such that there is a gap of 8-12 mm at the bottom. After the installation of large slabs, small sections are installed below, overlapping the gaps. For security, the sheets can be screwed to the wall surface with self-tapping screws.
- The GVL boards themselves are glued to the wall using special compounds according to the chosen method. This is done with a calibrating notched trowel, after applying the mixture, the sheet is leveled with a mallet. If it is planned to mount any furniture on the surface of the wall, then the glue must be applied to the entire surface of the gypsum fiber board.
- Apply the adhesive in an even layer, constantly monitor compliance with one level of installation. This is usually done with a taut thread. The DIY installation itself starts from the corner. Gradually, the entire room is pasted over along the perimeter. For cladding a wall made of wood, all sheets are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws or roofing nails with very wide heads.
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After laying gypsum-fiber sheets with your own hands on the walls of the room, it is necessary to putty all joints and fasteners with nails so that the surface becomes perfectly flat. When the mixture is dry, you can proceed with further finishing.
Frame installation method
Scheme of fastening gypsum cardboard to a metal frame.
The use of a frame for fastening is based on the use of metal or wood profiles. If wooden slats are used, then their cross-section for laying on the floor and ceiling should be no less than 30x50 mm, they are attached to the surface with screws, the vertical posts should have a section of 25x75 mm. The step of the racks should be no more than the width of one sheet of gypsum fiber board, 400-405 mm is recommended. GVL sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 250 mm (with a width of one plate of 1200-1205 mm). For do-it-yourself insulation of the space between the frame racks, you can lay glass wool.
Wall-mounting technology gVL boards assumes compliance with the following conditions:
- the pitch of the screws should not be less than 250 mm.
- the length of the screw for fasteners must be at least 30 mm.
- all slabs are assembled by hand, starting from the middle of the room, in a perpendicular direction.
- a gap of 5-7 mm is left between adjacent slabs, which must then be putty.
Installing a metal frame is not very different from using wooden slats, but it is considered more reliable. For this, galvanized metal profiles with a thickness of 0.56-0.6 mm are used. A guide profile is used, post, corner, ceiling and ceiling guide.
DIY assembly is carried out in this way:
- First, the surface of the wall must be prepared, all remnants of the old coating must be removed. As a rule, the advantages of the frame method are that the wall may not be prepared, but many craftsmen advise to putty the surface before fixing the profile.
- After that, the installation of the frame is started, the ceiling profile is used as vertical posts, the guide is used for installation on the surface of the ceiling and floor. Before doing the work, it is necessary to apply markings on the wall, which will show exactly where to strengthen the profile. This must be done using a building level, a plumb line and a simple pencil.
- For fastening, brackets are used that are fixed to the racks with self-tapping screws, the joining of the guide and rack-mount profiles is carried out with a cutter with a bend. The profile is fixed to the ceiling with dowels with a step of 60 cm, but the step can be less.
- GVL sheets are mounted in a vertical direction, a small gap should be left between them, which must be putty after installation.
| Sketch of the section of the PS profile | Marking | Sketch of the section of the PN profile | Marking | Aspect ratio, axb, mm | |
|
|
PS 50/50 | 50x50 |
|
MON 50/40 | 50x40 |
| PS 65/50 | 65x50 | MON 65/40 | 65x40 | ||
| PS 75/50 | 75x50 | MON 75/40 | 75x40 | ||
| PS 100/50 | 100x50 | MON 100/40 | 100x40 |
As you can see, in different brands of profiles, only the size of side a changes, while side b remains unchanged. Therefore, when purchasing a set of profile elements, make sure that the dimension a is the same for the upright and guide rails, otherwise their joint installation will not be possible.
Depending on the height of the structure, profiles of different sizes are used (the side size is indicated, a, mm):
- Up to 3 meters - 65;
- From 3 to 4.5 meters - 75;
- Over 4.5 meters - 100.
The maximum height of partitions that can be built using this technology is 5 meters. Auxiliary profiles with a side dimension a \u003d 50 mm can also be used in the work for mounting horizontal lintels, framing holes, etc.
As sound insulation, you can use polystyrene foam boards with a fire retardant 50 mm thick, as well as mineral wool boards with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm. These products fill the gap between the frame skins.
To cut GVL sheets, a construction knife (for longitudinal and transverse straight cuts), a hacksaw for GVL (for cutting rectangular holes) and a drill with a circular saw (for cutting round holes with a diameter of up to 80 mm) are used.
Important! Before installation, the sheets must be held in the room where the work is planned for at least 4 days in order for them to acquire the same humidity.
Assembling the frame
The instructions for assembling a metal frame are simple and straightforward:
- Using a coated cord on the floor, we beat off the partition line according to the project. The line should be strictly perpendicular to the opposite walls. Then, using a plumb line, we transfer the markings to the walls and ceiling;
- We take PN and cut out two segments along the length of the line on the floor, glue them with sealing tape and fix them along the floor and ceiling using BS-K 8x50 mm dowels and 4.2x51 mm galvanized screws with a pitch of 50 cm, but not less than 3 per one segment profile. We make sure that the details are located exactly according to the marking;
- We take the PS and cut out two segments along the height of the room minus 5 - 10 mm, which we glue with sealing tape and fix along the walls between the guides. The step of installing the screws is 100 cm, but not less than 3 for one piece of the rail;
- Next, we expose the PS on the sides of the doorway, which we reinforce with wooden bars inserted into the profile. For work, we use a plumb line or a level, we connect the parts using special fasteners in the profile structure or galvanized self-tapping screws 4.2x14 mm.
- We make the upper border of the doorway from the PN segment, which we reinforce with a vertical crossbar (or two) from the PS installed between it and the ceiling guide;
- We install the PS with a pitch of 402 mm along the entire partition, except for the doorway. We observe verticality, if the intended place of the joint of the sheets did not hit the substation, then we put an additional profile in this place.
We connect the profiles with screws after the PS is inserted into the PN:
Sheathing and soundproofing
After the end of the frame assembly, it should be sheathed with GVL sheets. To do this, cut out the sheets and cut the necessary parts. If the vertical size of the sheet does not overlap the height of the structure, then horizontal bridges from the PN of a smaller size should be installed at the joining point, or holes for joining should be cut in the normal profile.
The sheets are attached to the frame with two-thread self-tapping screws with a self-centered head measuring 3.9x30 mm with a pitch of 30 cm at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the gypsum sheet. The length of the screw should allow it to enter the profile by 1 cm. A gap of 10 mm is left between the sheets and the enclosing structures, and 5 mm between the adjacent sheets.
Fastening is carried out from an angle in two perpendicular directions: vertical and horizontal:
After sheathing one side, the structure is filled with sheets of mineral wool, inserting them between the posts so that they are slightly compressed and do not fall. The other side of the partition is then sheathed, thereby closing the soundproofing layer.
Important! Docking of sheets (horizontal or vertical) is performed only on the profile. If there is no profile at the junction of neighboring GVLs, it must be added.
Wall decoration
For finishing and leveling the walls, GVL is glued to their surface with putty or glue. If the irregularities on the walls exceed 20 mm, then strips of plaster with a width of 100 mm are first glued to the wall, to which the sheets are then glued using a putty:
Here, as in the case of the partition, sheets are preliminarily marked and cut out, which are then glued to the walls, creating the most even surface. If you are not intimidated by the higher price, use waterproof products.
Important! Remember to cut out the holes for sockets and switches in advance. This is easily done with an electric drill with a circular saw.
We maintain a standard gap of 5 mm (for gypsum board) or 1 mm (for gypsum board) between the sheets, which will then be filled with putty.
If the walls are too crooked, or their internal insulation is required, the frame finishing method is used. For this, the wall is pre-leveled with a structure made of PS and PN, which are fixed to the surface with dowels or brackets.
The step of the racks and the principle of assembling the frame is the same as in the construction of the partition, only here each rack and horizontal part are attached to the wall in three places.
After assembling the frame, it is sewn up with drywall like the frame cladding from the previous chapter. The space between the wall and the sheathing can be filled with insulation.
Important! Along the edge of the sheet at the cut point, a third of the sheet thickness is chamfered at an angle of 24.5 degrees.
Finishing
The joints are coated with putty and reinforced with a special tape.
Also, tighten all the screws so that they enter the surface of the gypsum to a depth of 0.5 - 1 mm. No break through of the cardboard cover is allowed. The entry points of the self-tapping screws are also covered with putty.
When the seams are dry, they begin to putty the entire wall. To do this, the plaster putty is diluted with water according to the manufacturer's instructions and applied with a wide spatula to the wall with an even thin layer (1 - 2 mm). After this layer has dried, it is brought up with a grater and covered with wallpaper.
Important! If painting is planned, then a double layer of putty is applied, which is carefully sanded with a fine grater. Then the surface is primed and painted.
Output
Drywall and gypsum fiber board are excellent materials for decorating and leveling walls. At the same time, the installation of these sheets is simple and can be done independently, and for those who nevertheless decided to make repairs, we have posted a training video in this article ().
Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford the purchase of spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in an apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, study and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional zones with your own hands, dividing with frame partitions sheathed with plasterboard, and installing a door.
Anatomy of a drywall structure
Despite the peculiarities of the interior, your design idea, as well as the location and size of the plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profiles, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the point of installation of the doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets (GKL) is a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.
The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets
Application area
Frame partitions sheathed with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zoning space in rooms different layouts and destination. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.
Benefits
Frame structures, sheathed with drywall sheets, have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:
- Material properties. A strong metal profile allows you to mount lightweight partition walls of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, the galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material specially processed to improve its fire retardant and moisture resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
- Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions easy to install - even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction work, home craftsman can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these designs is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
- Laying of communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
- Minimum costs. All elements that make up the partition, sheathed with gypsum board, are of low cost. During the installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, it is not exceeded acceptable level noise and a minimum of energy is spent.
disadvantages
Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:
- Relative fragility of drywall in comparison with materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
- Low resistance of gypsum board to abundant moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak, "organized" by the neighbors living above.
- The impossibility of attaching massive shelves or wall cabinets to the surface of the partition. The design is capable of supporting a weight of up to 70 kg per one running meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.
Despite some disadvantages of gypsum board, we note that the competent creation and correct operation of partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.
Preparation for work
That's it, this is the end of the short "theory course", we pass on to solving practical issues. First, we will consider a list of the necessary tools, list the materials that we need for the construction of the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.
Tool
To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but rather common and uncomplicated tools:
- Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
- LBM ("grinder") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
- Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
- Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in the load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
- Electric (cordless) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.
To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool
Attention! To mount the structure on the upper levels, you will need a solid step ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - glasses or masks, heavy gloves, and a respirator.
Materials
For self-installation of the partition, the following materials will be used:
- A metal profile of two types for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mountable" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is a load-bearing element of the lathing.
- Plasterboard for cladding - covers the frame on both sides.
- Insulation - fills interior structures, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.
1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall
When choosing the basic materials for the construction of the partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:
- Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the room ceilings - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
- Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum plasterboard - a moisture resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and curly structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
- Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork plate or dense foam), and basalt wool, which perfectly stores heat, is useful to highlight the hallway area.
In addition to the main structural elements, you will need to create it:
- Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the floors.
- Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening the frame elements.
- Self-tapping piercing screws for drywall (MN 25 or MN 30) - cladding assembly.
- Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
- Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.
The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners
Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing the joints between sheets and masking the areas of screwing the caps of self-tapping screws on the sheathing surface - reinforcing tape-serpyanka, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.
Measurements + table for calculating consumables
To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate the required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of plating layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a 75 mm wide profile and single-layer sheathing with gypsum board sheets.
- Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 \u003d 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix as a whole, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the rest of the length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the door installation site and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile is marked in black, shaping the outline of the structure
- Rack profile (CW). Considering standard width GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical frame posts must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is in the middle of the sheet.
The frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
- Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and getting as a result 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical struts of the partition frame made of CW profile are marked in gray
- Profile for a doorway. At the installation site of the door, we will have to displace one post, reinforcing it with a strip of the guide profile, this is constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need one more three-meter post profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a 1.0 m long section of the guide profile will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue
- Profile for lintels between posts. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers are installed between the posts from the guide profile at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and those surpluses that remained when calculating the partition contour.
Lintels from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure
- Drywall. As a material for cladding, we use GKL sheets (plates) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used in full, and the other three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half of the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be positioned in this way
The second side of the frame should be closed with the sheets offset by one stand or 600 mm
Expert's advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with displacement joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when sheathing.
Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:
- guide profile (UW-75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
- guide profile (UW-75) 4 meters - 3 strips;
- rack profile (CW-75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
- drywall (gypsum plasterboard 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.
The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fix the guide profile to the ceilings should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.
Engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction - prepared a table that will help us with calculations.
| Position | Name | Unit measurements | Quantity per sq. m |
| 1 | KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO) | sq. m | 2,0 |
| 2 | Knauf profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40) | run. m | 0,7 |
| 3 | Knauf profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50) | run. m | 2,0 |
| 4 | Screw TN 25 | pCS. | 29 |
| 5 | Putty Knauf-Fugen | kg | 0,6 |
| 6 | Reinforcing tape | run. m | 1,5 |
| 7 | Dowel K 6/35 | pCS. | 1,6 |
| 8 | Sealing tape | run. m | 1,2 |
| 9 | Primer Knauf-Tiefengrund | l | 0,2 |
| 10 | Knauf mineral wool insulation | sq. m | 1,0 |
| 11 | Knauf-profile PU | pCS. | * |
* Note that the number of corner profiles (PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of \u200b\u200bthe structure.
Attention! To simplify calculations for the construction of a drywall partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.
How to do it yourself: step by step instructions
So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, we will be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of our neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.
Expert advice: Any construction work using drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting. Before the measures for the creation of the partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled by sealing the potholes, seams and cracks with putty.
Layout and markup
Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the marking will be performed. This stage of work is as follows:
Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall plates and the layer of its finishing.
Installation of crate
Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:
- LBM ("grinder") or scissors for metal cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the required length. On the back side of the blanks, we will glue a sealing damper tape, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibrations
- We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (with a pitch of no more than 400-500 mm) and hammering in the fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise to start with the upper rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to "shoot" the correct installation of the floor profile from it with a plumb line.
We drill holes for dowel-nails with a puncher and hammer the fasteners with a hammer
- We will install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same pitch) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using a building level. Note that fastening a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).
By mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level
- Let's form doorwayby installing racks from a reinforced profile in the marked place. We measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150-200 mm), or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden bar, picking it up by size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
Insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with self-tapping screws for metal
- We will install a reinforced rack in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap is useful), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. We will mount the second rack in the same way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully put it in the upper
- Let's set up posts from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls... The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, check the verticality with a level, we carry out fasteners with self-tapping screws for metal. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack-mount profile, since it is at this point that sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with self-tapping screws for metal
- We will mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Cut a piece 200 mm long from the strip of the guide profile longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.
A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, additionally reinforcing the structure
- We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be reinforced in any of the mentioned ways.
- If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to make and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the posts. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW upright profile with self-tapping screws for metal.
A variant of the location of the transverse jumpers in the frame with a height of more than 3 m
- Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will install the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams must be fixed in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed
This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important stage in creating the partition.
Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation
In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.
Mineral wool slabs reliably retain heat, and also insulate the room from extraneous noise
Expert's advice: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase slabs or mats of mineral wool of the required thickness - material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and fits comfortably between the elements of the crate.
Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:
- Let's go around one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting from a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step began for CW profile racks. Remember that when installing the gypsum board, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and "blind" installation in the spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of cladding is performed from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
- We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by twisting the self-tapping screws for the gypsum board around the entire perimeter with a pitch of 250–300 mm. The caps of the self-tapping screws are recessed inside the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The caps of self-tapping screws must be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
- With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut out the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
- Having closed one side of the frame, we put it inside insulating material, slicing it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks.
Place the cut-to-size slabs of mineral wool between the racks of the crate
- We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, displacing the sheets by 600 mm (one post) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
- We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.
Attention! When assembling the plasterboard cladding, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - to attach the extension or non-standard size parts, you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.
Final chords
After finishing the sheathing of the partition frame, insert the door block into it and solve the issue with finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the unit will not cause any difficulties.
The issue with the surface finish of the cladding is also solved quite simply:
Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be pasted over with wallpaper, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster - it only depends on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed acquaintance with the installation process frame structurelined with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.
Video: How to build a plasterboard partition and install a door
Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.
Gypsum fiber sheets are a versatile material ideal for leveling walls, making partitions and various designs indoors.
Made of natural gypsum and natural cellulose, absolutely environmentally friendly and safe for health.
The breathable structure of the sheet provides optimal humidity, air exchange and a comfortable indoor climate.
Figure 1. Walls faced with GVL.
TOP 3 best products according to buyers' opinion
Types and advantages of GVL
Gypsum fiber sheets are a pressed material with a homogeneous structure.
There are two types of gypsum fiber sheets on sale: GVL and GVLV.
For wall cladding and the device of partitions of living rooms, ordinary gypsum fiber sheets are suitable - GVL.
Figure 2. GVLKnauf.
In rooms with high humidity, moisture resistant sheets - GVLV should be used.
It is possible to use moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheets in bathrooms, unheated and damp basements, garages, industrial and warehouse buildings.
GVL sheets are produced with straight and folded edges.
Rebated sheets are intended for wall cladding, with straight edges are used when installing dry floor screeds.
Standard dimensions of GVL for walls, in millimeters:
- length - 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000;
- width - 500, 1000, 1200;
- gVL thickness - 10, 12, 15, 20;
Gypsum fiber sheets are much stronger than gypsum board, due to the reinforcing cellulose fibers present in the sheet mass, they have many advantages:
- flame retardant material, does not support combustion;
- you can hammer in nails and screw in screws;
- sawn well with a hacksaw, a grinder with an electric jigsaw, processed with a plane;
- not subject to thermal expansion;
- reduces labor costs and finishing times;
- suitable for any finishing materials;
- compatible with all types of adhesives and putties;
- easily mounted on wooden and metal frames, forming a perfectly flat surface.
Disadvantages of GVL:
- rigid sheets are not suitable for facing curved structures;
- high price;
- large weight compared to gypsum board.
Installation methods
Gypsum fiber sheets can be mounted on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden bars, as well as directly on the wall, using putty, polyurethane foam or special adhesive mixtures.
The metal frame is superior to wood in many technical and operational characteristics:
- resistant to external influences, not affected by fungus, mold and pests;
- easy to assemble;
- does not burn;
- not subject to deformation;
- strong, reliable and durable.
Metal profiles are divided into guides and main ones.
Horizontal guide profiles are marked with the letters PN. This is the base of the frame to which the vertical main posts are attached.
The main posts are marked with the letters PS. Gypsum-fiber sheets are hung on them.
Figure 3. The rack profile is inserted into the guide profile.
A wooden frame is cheaper than a metal one, but it has a number of significant disadvantages:
- affected by pests and microorganisms:
- subject to deformation and shrinkage:
- combustible.
The frame is needed for the installation of insulation and sound insulation of walls and partitions, with significant irregularities in the walls, for using the space for laying under the cladding engineering communications.
The frameless method of installing GVL is used if there are slight irregularities in the walls, up to 50 millimeters.
Installation of GVL on a metal frame
Before starting work, we clean the floor, walls and ceiling from construction debris, dirt, possible influx of concrete or mortar.
The work is carried out in the following sequence:
1. Marking the frame
Before proceeding with the installation of profiles for wall cladding or the device of partitions made of gypsum fiber sheets along the frame, it is necessary to perform horizontal and vertical marking of the surfaces of walls and ceilings, with drawing lines for mounting profiles and attachment points for suspensions.
Figure 4. Layout of a wall for plasterboard cladding.
For this we use a laser level or a plumb line and a tape measure.
We apply the lines with a chopping cord and a pencil.
- The distance from the profile to the wall is determined based on the thickness of the insulation and the location of engineering systems and we put marks in the corners. Using a cord and a pencil, transfer the marks to the floor, marking a horizontal line. Using a plumb line, we transfer the line to the ceiling. We will mount the main horizontal profile along the resulting parallel lines.
- We determine the installation locations of the vertical support profiles based on the width of the sheets and put marks around the perimeter of the rooms. We divide the obtained segments into sections of 400 - 600 millimeters, we get the step of installing the vertical profiles.
- We mark the attachment points of horizontal jumpers and plumb lines by breaking the vertical stripes into segments of about 500 millimeters.
Important!
The marking should be carried out strictly according to the level in order to avoid deformations and the formation of cracks after the completion of finishing work.
2.Mounting the frame
We fasten the upper and lower horizontal profiles to the ceiling with screws and dowels, with an interval of about 50 centimeters.
To the walls, according to the established marks, we attach the distance brackets for the installation of vertical posts, with a step of 50 - 100 centimeters.
We cut the rack profiles into segments equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling. We put the upper and lower ends of the profiles into horizontal profiles.
We fasten the vertical posts with self-tapping screws to the side walls of the horizontal profiles and the bracket legs. We bend the protruding parts of the legs or cut off with a grinder.
Figure 5. Installation of a galvanized metal frame.
We tie up the vertical posts with horizontal jumpers at right angles using crab joints.
Important!
Fasten the profiles and hangers to the wall through an elastic damper sealing tape that dampens vibrations and impact noise, leveling minor irregularities in walls and ceilings.
Figure 6. Bonding the sealing tape.
3.Warning and soundproofing
Between the profiles we put mineral wool insulation on a synthetic binder. We install rigid plates in a spacer, and roll material fasten with umbrella dowels or glue.
We close the insulation from above with a vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture penetrating through the gypsum board from the room. In living rooms, you can do without a vapor barrier.
Figure 7. Thermal insulation and insulation of the outer wall.
We glue the vibration-insulating porous tape to the profile.
4. Fastening of gypsum fiber sheets to a metal frame
When buying gypsum fiber board, consider the height of the premises to avoid transverse joints.
Important!
Before the start of installation, the gypsum board sheets must be held in the conditions where the installation will be carried out for at least four days. So that the material adapts to the humidity and temperature of the room.
You need to start installing sheets from a window or door.
We set the GVL strictly in level so that the edge of the sheet is located strictly along the centerline of the vertical profile. Sheets can be joined only along the profile posts. We fix it with self-tapping screws, 25 millimeters long, in 20 centimeters increments around the sheet perimeter.
With a two-layer cladding, the pitch of the self-tapping screws for fixing the first sheet can be up to 750 millimeters.
We fasten the following sheets in the same way, making a gap between the sheets of 4-5 millimeters.
To fasten the drywall around the window, set the sheet in place and circle the perimeter of the opening from the inside. In this case, the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 centimeters away from the opening.
Cut the opening along the lines drawn and fasten the sheet in place.
When constructing slopes from the gypsum board, we cut out the elements to size and attach to the frame.
Important!
When screwing the screws into the gypsum board, it is important to sink the caps by 1-2 millimeters. To do this, it is better to install a limiter on the screwdriver.
With multi-layer wall cladding, the sheets of the next layer are shifted relative to the first at least 400 millimeters in horizontal joints, and by a step of the racks in vertical joints.
Figure 8. Schematic layout of GVL in 2 layers.
To protect the outer corners of GVL from mechanical damage, we attach metal perforated profiles made of galvanized steel to the corners.
Figure 9. Fixing a galvanized perforated profile.
Internal corners must be putty with a double bent reinforcing tape.
After finishing the cladding, the joints of the self-tapping screws, the corners and the seams between the sheets are sealed with putty. To prevent cracking of the putty, pre-glue the seams with reinforcing tape. It is better to use mesh tape, serpyanka, with adhesive on the back.
When using serpyanka, glue it to the seams between the sheets, and then apply the putty.
Figure 10. Gluing the serpyanka on the gypsum board seams.
We glue paper or non-woven tapes to the seams filled with putty. We also apply a thin layer of putty on top of the tape and level it with a spatula.
Figure 11. Applying reinforcement tape.
Grind the dried putty with fine sandpaper or a special mesh and, if necessary, putty again.
Sand again, remove dust and prime with a penetrating primer.
Cladding of wooden walls
Wooden walls can be faced with a metal frame, wooden slats or foam.
Figure 12. Cladding wooden walls GVL on a wooden crate.
A wooden slatted batten is the best option for a wooden house, and it slightly reduces the size of the room compared to a metal frame.
For timber frame coniferous bars treated with antiseptics and fire retardants are used.
A bar with a section of 60x50 millimeters is suitable for the construction of a frame of partitions, for wall cladding without insulation, a section of 25x40 is sufficient.
Figure 13. Facing of wooden walls of GVL on wooden crate.
The frameless method of wooden walls from a bar is allowed.
Frameless method of fixing GVL
To determine the possibility and option of attaching sheets directly to the wall, without a frame, you need to check the curvature of the walls using a construction plumb bob and a two-meter rail.
If the curvature of the walls is more than 50 millimeters, it is not advisable to attach the gypsum board to glue. This method of fastening is also not suitable for facing rooms with a height of more than three meters.
Before starting work, we carry out preparatory work:
- we clean the surfaces of the walls from old finishing materials, oil pollution, dirt and dust.
- we seal cracks, voids and depressions with repair compounds;
- impregnate the surface of the walls with a primer twice.
To prevent moisture from entering the sheets and to prevent shrinkage deformations, we leave technological gaps at the top and bottom of the wall, placing trim sheets or wooden blocks below.
As an adhesive for gypsum plasterboard, you can use liquid nails, putties, silicone sealants, tile glue or any gypsum and cement mixtures.
When attaching gypsum-fiber sheets to polyurethane foam, it is advisable to purchase it with a minimum expansion coefficient, and immediately fix the sheets firmly when gluing.
The porous structure of GVL is distinguished by good adhesion and ensures reliable adhesion to any binder.
We begin the installation of sheets on glue from the corner of the room, pressing the sheets along the entire plane to the wall and controlling their verticality using a rail and a plumb line.
Figure 14. Frameless method of fixing GVL.
Depending on the curvature of the walls, we choose the fastening methods:
- If the unevenness of the walls is more than 20 millimeters, we first fix the leveling strips made of gypsum plasterboard or gypsum plasterboard, at least one hundred millimeters wide, on the walls, then with a notched trowel in even continuous stripes we apply glue to the sheets at the points of abutment to the leveling guides.
- In case of unevenness up to 20 millimeters, apply the glue with moldings on the sheet with an interval of 250 - 350 millimeters. At the same time, we apply reference beacons to the wall from a solution of three to four marks in a row, with a distance between rows of up to 600 millimeters.
- For absolutely even walls, apply the glue in a thin continuous layer, leveling with a notched trowel.
The choice of cladding method depends on the wall material, individual requirements and financial capabilities.
Various fastening methods allow you to achieve a flat, solid base for any fine finish. It is important to carry out the work strictly observing building codes, rules and installation technology.
