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Beautiful concrete blind area. DIY concrete blind area around the house: step-by-step instructions

The blind area surrounding the house plays a very important role in ensuring long and comfortable use of the house. It protects the foundation structure and the soil around it from water. The accumulation of moisture near the house during melting snow or during rainfall can erode the topsoil and reach the foundation. If she manages to leak to the bottom of the foundation and damage it, then its bearing capacity and strength will be reduced, which as a result can cause the destruction of the house. It is especially important correctly in the case of using a shallow base, in which the sole is close to the surface, so that moisture can easily reach its depth.

The width of the blind area should be as high as possible, since it should protect the base.

As a result of soaking, the sole strength decreases, and it begins to sag unevenly, destroying the foundation. However, even in the case of using recessed bases, it is also necessary. It must always be done, regardless of the construction of the base, the type of soil and other conditions.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

How to make quality so that it lasts as long as possible and becomes reliable protection for the foundation? To do this, you need to choose the right material of good quality and clearly follow the technology.

First of all, you need to choose the width. Since it should protect the base, its width should be as large as possible.

Scheme of the blind area around the house.

In addition to the protective function, the blind area around the house is also erected as a track along the perimeter of the structure. This also needs to be taken into account, choosing its width, so that in the future you do not have to walk along it sideways. Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that the most optimal width of a correctly made blind area around the house that meets all the norms and requirements is in the range of about 1-2.5 m.

The blind area around the house must be done with a certain slope, due to which water will run off in the direction from the walls of the building. Building standards defined a slope of 50-100 mm per 1 m of width. This means that the edge of the blind area around the house, whose width is 1 m, will have a height of 50-100 mm near the wall of the house, and its other edge will be located flush with the ground. The resulting descent is good for diverting water from a building: water will drain quickly enough, but walking along such a blind area is difficult. However, if you make the angle of inclination less, then the water will drain much more slowly or even linger on the surface, but it will be much more convenient to walk. A compromise between efficiency and comfort is considered to be a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width. When walking, such a slope is almost not noticeable, and the water drains completely down and does not linger on the surface.

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Materials and cover for the blind area around the house

Blind device layout.

In order to properly make the blind area around the house yourself, you need to prepare the appropriate materials. There are several popular options for its manufacture, in which various materials are used, but the most common is the blind area made of concrete.

Manufacturing technology is quite simple. First of all, the area for the blind area is cleaned, after which the reinforcement rods with a diameter of 6 mm or more are stacked in the form of a grid. Between themselves, the rods are connected using a knitting wire. Next, formwork made of wooden boards is installed. At the end, the formwork is poured with concrete mortar.

To independently make a blind area around the house, prepare the following tools and materials:

  • Shovel
  • Hydraulic level;
  • Wheelbarrow for rubble and soil transportation;
  • Manual tamper;
  • Waterproofing materials;
  • Insulation;
  • Sand;
  • Rubble;
  • Clay;
  • Reinforced mesh with 10x10 cells or reinforcement bars.

Before starting work, it is advisable to carry out the necessary preparatory actions, for which free access to the house from all sides should be organized, as well as prepare the tools and materials listed above.

The next stage is the execution of marking work. It is most convenient to perform this procedure using wooden or metal pegs (driven along the perimeter of the future) and a cord stretched between them. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the blind area has the same width at all points (as a rule, around private houses 1 m wide).

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DIY concrete blind area around the house: step-by-step instructions

The scheme of the construction of the concrete blind area.

The durability of the foundation, as well as the amount of money and time spent on the device of the structure itself, depends on the blind area made in accordance with all norms and rules. It is better to take care of creating a blind area immediately after the construction of the house is completed.

The blind area around the house consists of 2 structural layers. The first of them is the underlying layer. The main objective of this layer is to create a compacted even base for coating. Material used: sand, clay or small gravel. Layer thickness - up to 20 mm. The choice of material for the underlying layer depends entirely on the material of the second layer, i.e. coverings. The main objective of the coating is resistance to the destructive effects of moisture and water resistance. Material used: clay (it can be used both as a base layer and to create a coating), asphalt mix, concrete, small cobblestone. Layer thickness - up to 100 mm.

The scheme of the concrete blind area.

This is true for any type of blind area around the house. Next, an instruction for the blind area device will be given on the example of the most popular option - concrete.

To prepare the concrete mix, it is necessary to take M400 cement, crushed stone and sand in the proportions of 1: 4: 2.

Make markup for the future blind area around the house. The minimum width of the structure was described earlier. Remove and compact the ground around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed even at the zero cycle of construction work. During the construction of the blind area, it is necessary to prepare the ground specifically for the width of the future structure in accordance with the markings made. In this case, it is necessary to consider what material will be used during construction. For the earth you need to take out to a depth of about 25 cm ("on the bayonet of a shovel").

The next step is the manufacture of formwork from boards. For formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm are used. A small layer of clay is laid on compacted earth. Clay is leveled and compacted. A layer of sand is laid with a thickness of about 10 cm. The sand must be carefully compacted, for which it should be additionally shed with water. Try not to overdo it. Remember that clay is below. Particularly carefully you need to compact the sand at the foundation. Now you need to lay the crushed stone with a layer of 60-70 mm.

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After the construction of the house is completed, it is imperative to install the blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and also significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore can be done blind area with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all the installation steps without errors.

The appearance of the blind area

The blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: the substrate and the coating. The main role of the substrate is to create an even and durable base for laying the protective coating. Usually, two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone act as a substrate. The use of clay is good in that it is able to perform a waterproofing function and not let moisture pass through it, but for this it will need to be laid down in a high-quality manner and to achieve uniformity of the layer. Sand is easier to use, since it can easily smooth out any irregularities in the surface of the soil.

As a coating, you can use any suitable materials that have the following properties:

  • They are strong enough to withstand the expected mechanical stress.
  • They have high-quality waterproofing properties.
  • Resistant to sudden changes in temperature.
  • Thanks to a smooth surface, they are able to qualitatively remove moisture from the foundation.

Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coverings are mainly used for the blind area.

Related article:

Photo blind areas around the house: the main types of structures

When designing photos, the blind areas around the houses will greatly simplify their selection. There are such types of designs:

  • Hard. They are constructions based on hard coatings, which under load retain their shape without deformation. Usually made of concrete or asphalt. The terms of their service are usually compared with the duration of the operation of the building. At the cost of bookmarks, rigid structures will cost more than others, since they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Required to install the presence of soil of medium or high density.



  • Soft.   Differ in simple technology of laying and the minimum requirements for operation. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. They require minimal costs and physical effort to install. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can be stacked on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are used mainly for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not quite aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the building's facade.


  • Semi-rigid.   They represent a kind of compromise between hard and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid out with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several tens of years. They have excellent maintainability, since it is possible to replace or shift part of the structure without any problems. However, they have restrictions on use in areas with a high location of groundwater, on soils with a large freezing depth and on heaving soils. The cost of installation work will be cheaper than hard, but at the same time the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.

Defining the parameters of the blind area

In order to understand how to make blind areas around houses, it is necessary to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is width. It is determined by the current building codes and rules, which say that it should be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually this size is counted from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the selected type of material, the density of the soil in the area and the magnitude of the expected loads of variable and static nature. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is at least 1 m.

Another parameter is the degree of penetration of the structure into the ground. The main effect on it is the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, a soil property such as heaving, which can literally damage in a year without the possibility of restoration, has a significant effect on the design. Therefore, the level of the bookmark should provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including a layer of sand and gravel pillows. If constant loads are assumed, it is recommended to increase the thickness to 15-20 cm.

Helpful information!   At the junction of the porch to the house there is no special need to lay the blind area, since the main foundation in this case will be protected. However, if a monolithic or brick porch is built, it is recommended to protect it, since the weight is large enough per unit area and there is a high probability of subsidence.

For a good drainage of precipitation, the surface should have a certain slope. The angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other hand, by the convenience of using the structure as a pedestrian walkway or for other purposes. The optimal value is 2-3 °.

In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it higher by 5 cm from the soil surface. If there are trees or shrubs near the house, they will need to be uprooted to a distance of about 1.5 m from the house.

Attention!   You can protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a border.

Preparatory work

Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:

  • Marking the territory.
  • Earthworks.
  • Laying the underlay.

We mark the territory for the installation of the blind area

With the help of pegs around the perimeter of the house, marking is necessary. To do this, we measure a distance of 1 m from the walls with a tape measure and drive wooden pegs into the corners to a depth of 0.5 m at the corners so that it is possible to carry out excavation work without moving them from their place. We pull the rope on them.

Helpful information!   If the building has a large area, it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.

Excavation Stage

Using a shovel, it is necessary to dig a trench according to the markup. Depth is determined by the type of design chosen, climatic features and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3 ° from the building. This can be done quite easily by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.

Since the main foundation and construction of the blind areas will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping digging along the wall, you need to lay a damping layer based on a polyurethane tape.

The bottom of the trench should be carefully tamped with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use a regular log.

Laying a pillow under the blind area

At the bottom of the prepared trench, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and fill up a layer of sand with a thickness of 10-20 cm, depending on the type of construction and the depth of the trench, with careful tamping and leveling. For the convenience of work, it is recommended to spill the layer with plenty of water in order to maximize its compaction. However, before laying the outer layer, you will need to wait until the pillow dries.

Important!   If construction is carried out in an area with a high location of groundwater, it will be necessary to install a drainage system. It is a pipe with holes in the upper part, which is located around the perimeter of the building and is connected to a storm sewer system.

Gravel with fractions of up to 5 cm must be filled up on top of the sand, and the top layer should be smoothed with crushed stone with grains of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the formed pores.

Helpful information!   Crushed stone can be replaced by other types of stone or even a brick fight. The most important thing is to use a homogeneous material so that areas with different strength characteristics are not created.

How to make a blind area around the house?

The installation process depends on the type of construction and the selected material. For example, when laying a soft structure, you will not need to carry out any additional work, but when installing a rigid one, you need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to carry out the installation correctly will be described in the following subsections.

Installation of a hard blind area

It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat and waterproofing layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use heat-insulating materials, which are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical loads. An example is a plate of polystyrene foam or polystyrene.

Attention!   Before laying, it is necessary to install the formwork, which is recommended to use boards laid from the inside with a waterproofing film. Such a solution will prevent the absorption of moisture from the concrete mortar poured subsequently and it will be able to gain design strength. Otherwise, the dehydrated parts will become brittle and the service life will be significantly reduced.

To understand the technology of filling the blind areas around the house of concrete, how to make the formwork and what to follow the sequence of actions, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:

  • From the corner of the building along the wall we install the first plate, checking the correct position using the building level.
  • We fix the insulation on a suitable type of fastening, pressing it firmly against the wall.
  • We install butt to the first plate the next with a minimum gap.
  • We fix the slab, and carefully seal the joint with construction foam.
  • Similarly, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with insulating material.
Attention!   If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with ligation of the joints of two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made nets are used with a bar diameter of 8-10 mm and a mesh size of 10-15 cm. It is important to lay so that the steel bars are in a concrete layer. To do this, use special plastic supports.

It is recommended to fill the structure with concrete mortar of grade M400 or higher, and at a time, so that the structure acquires maximum strength. Therefore, in advance you need to calculate the approximate volume and order the solution in the right amount at a cement plant.

When pouring, it is important to create a uniform layer, for which it is necessary to smooth the surface gently with concrete using a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution needs to be mixed to remove air bubbles from the layer. After pasting the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface with a rule. The side parts of the formwork will serve as guides.

At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To provide ideal conditions for concrete hardening, it will be necessary to cover the entire upper part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. The pour time is 28 days, depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.

Installation of a soft blind area

The soft blind area around the houses is laid on the waterproofing layer, laid on top of the sand cushion. It is recommended to use rubemast, which has an increased service life, as an insulating material. Laying is done with an overlap of 10-15 cm, not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The joint seams are sealed with bitumen under heating of the burner.

On top of the waterproofing, it is necessary to pour a 10 cm layer of a dry mixture of sand and crushed stone in equal proportions. Then the surface should be carefully tamped and leveled. In this case, it is absolutely necessary to maintain the angle of inclination. On top of the embankment, another layer of crushed stone is laid with a grain size of not more than 5 mm and is also compacted.

Do-it-yourself semi-rigid blind area: step-by-step instructions

Is it possible to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is quite solvable and a reliable blind area can be created with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on the prepared sand-crushed stone pillow, on top of which an additional layer of sand with a thickness of 8-10 cm is filled up. For paving

  • The level is necessary to control the angle of inclination in order to prevent distortion.
  • The next tile is placed end-to-end with the previous one.
  • For alignment, it is necessary to lay a wooden plank on the surface of the tiles and by tapping to achieve their correct location.
  • If there is a subsidence of one of the corners of the tile, then you need to pour a little sand and repeat the alignment with a mallet.
  • If it is necessary to cut tiles for laying under the wall of the house or along the curb, you need to use a grinder.
  • We carry out laying along the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe blind area.
  • How to repair the blind area?

    The blind area around the house, in ignorance of the nuances of the laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay the tiles will obviously contain such defects that will emerge sooner or later and will require repair work. Recovery is carried out depending on the degree of damage:

    • In the presence of cracks of not more than 1 mm, repairs are not required, as they are not critical and in no way will worsen the performance characteristics of the structure.
    • If the size of the cracks is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to use water-cement mortar in the same proportions. After the solution dries, a strong layer will be created that will provide maximum protection for the building foundation.
    • For cracks up to 3 cm, concrete pouring will be required, having previously cleared them of dirt and treated with a deep penetration primer. The use of waterproof fillers or sealants is also permitted.

    • Cracks more than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate its and maintainability. You may need to remove part of the top layer and align the cushion. After ascertaining the sufficient load-bearing capacity of the structure, pour concrete.
    • The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement composition to the surface in order to harden it.

    Conclusion

    It is shown that the installed blind area with your own hands can last a long time if step-by-step instructions were used and construction technologies were followed. The main mounting methods for all types of blind areas are given. Some methods for repairing damage to the external surface of a structure are indicated.

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    In addition, it is used as a convenient pedestrian walkway and decoration during the improvement of the territory adjacent to the house. The use of blind or bulk insulation when installing the device allows you to protect the foundation from the effects of low temperatures and reduce heat loss through the building envelope.

    A fairly simple device of such a protective coating simultaneously solves several important tasks related to protection and improvement, without requiring large financial investments. At the same time, you can do it yourself without inviting construction specialists for this.

    Blind areas around the house are made immediately after finishing the exterior walls of the building, but before the basement is finished. This is due to the need to overlap the expansion joint between the wall and the coating of the track from the ingress of rainwater due to the overhang of the protruding surface of the base.

    For pile, deep columnar and screw foundations, the presence of a blind area is not mandatory, but it is often made as an element of landscaping and as a convenient footpath.

    Blind construction

    A protective coating must be done around the entire perimeter of the house, since it is necessary to provide protection for the entire foundation mass. The basic requirements for how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands are set out in SNiP 2.02.01-83, which says that on normal soils its width should be at least 600 mm, and on subsidence - not less than a meter. In general, the width of the coating should extend by at least 200 mm beyond the protruding section of the roof. The maximum width is not regulated.

    General drawing of the blind area.

    The hard surface must be laid on a solid foundation with a thickness of at least 15 cm. The deviation of the blind area from the building is at least 0.03%, with the excess of the lower edge above the planning mark of more than 5 cm.   Stormwater must be discharged into storm drains or trays.

    A well-made insulated blind area should consist of three main layers:

    • surface waterproof;
    • laying out of gravel or a mixture of crushed stone with sand;
    • warming from expanded polystyrene.

    As an additional layer, it can be used, which will be sufficiently reliable waterproofing from rising groundwater in the spring, as well as prevent the possible germination of weeds.

    Coating Materials

    The materials used for the top layer in the construction of the blind area are quite diverse and have their own distinctive features. The simplest and cheapest is ordinary clay. With its help, you can create a fairly reliable hydraulic lock. Such protection is often found in rural areas. However, modern developers have long abandoned such primitive materials and use more efficient technologies.


      Options.

    The most common option is how to make a blind area - a concrete coating device. It can be easily and quickly mounted independently, without investing large financial resources. At the same time, concrete is characterized by high strength and durability, and also allows its further covering with paving slabs to improve the appearance.

    Paving with paving slabs is done on a cement-sand mixture or mortar.   Most often it is used to create a single color ensemble with the decoration of the building or its decorative elements. It is also quite durable.

    Paving stones can be laid on a compacted sand cushion.   It has a beautiful appearance, but more expensive tiles and a few. When using paving stones, it is necessary to ensure high-quality for complete sealing of the upper layer.


      Sectional concrete blind area.

    The device of the blind area made of natural stone looks very beautiful and will last without repair for many years. However, the high cost of the material reduces the possibility of its widespread use.

    Asphalt due to an unpleasant odor in hot weather is rarely used.   In addition, this does not differ in high strength, and buying a factory costs much more than a concrete screed device.

    DIY concrete blind area

    For a concrete protective coating device, you will need the following materials:

    • cement grade PTs400 or PTs500;
    • river or washed sand;
    • gravel or crushed stone fractions up to 40 mm;
    • polystyrene foam insulation boards;
    • board and bitumen for its processing from decay;
    • reinforcing mesh with a mesh of 100x100 mm;
    • clay or geotextiles.

    From the tool and construction equipment you need to prepare:

    •   or manual ramming;
    • bayonet and shovels;
    • wide tub for concrete;
    • building level;
    • plaster rule;
    • mason trowel;
    • hacksaw and hammer.

    Work begins with the layout of future coverage. About its size was mentioned above. After the final marking on the width of the track, the top layer of soil should be removed to a depth of 25-30 cm, and the bottom is rammed.

    Next, you need to spread a geotextile canvas along the bottom of the trench or arrange a hydraulic lock 5-7 cm thick from rammed clay. On a geotextile or clay pour a layer of sand 4-5 cm and also tamp. Sand is needed so that the sharp edges of the gravel do not damage the integrity of the waterproofing layer.

    Now, from boards or other sheet material, you need to assemble and install a removable formwork along the edge of the trench. Its height should be 5 cm above the planning mark of the adjacent territory. After this, a layer of gravel with gravel 7-8 cm thick should be poured and compacted and sprinkled with sand a little. This layer of sand is needed so that when pouring the concrete mixture, the cement mortar does not go into the voids left between the stones.

    When installing a concrete coating, it is necessary to provide for the installation of expansion joints 1-2 cm wide. They will compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete layer in hot weather and prevent its possible rupture with strong cooling. To do this, along the perimeter of the basement with the help of bitumen, a 1-2 cm thick layer of roofing material or hydroisol is to be glued along the wall of the house. Instead of rolled materials, you can use a porous tourniquet made of foamed polyethylene.


      Formwork drawing.

    In addition, every 2-3 meters, as well as at all corners of the building across the blind area, it is necessary to install 2-3 cm thick boards on the edge, which, after pouring concrete, will compensate for possible extensions.

    Before installation, the wood must be treated with a bituminous compound to protect it from moisture and decay. Install transverse compensation rails so that their upper edge matches the future concrete surface.

    Concrete grade and formwork pouring

    To increase the strength of the concrete layer, it is recommended to reinforce it with a metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 cm. If you have an old bar or wire with a diameter of 5-8 mm, then you can use this material, however, all the individual elements must be interconnected.

    After the formwork is installed, the reinforcing mesh is laid, and the bulk layers are tamped, you can begin to prepare the concrete mix and pour it. Strong and durable coating allows you to use concrete brands M200-250.

    It can be bought ready-made with delivery to the facility or made independently, 1 part cement, 2.5 parts sand and 4 parts gravel. Water is poured into the mixer last and added gradually until a homogeneous mass of medium density is obtained.

    The finished concrete mixture is placed inside the formwork over the reinforcing mesh so that its edge slightly rises above the ground, and the blind area has a slope of at least 3%, i.e. 1 meter wide should be 3 cm level increase.

    Surface leveling should be done using the plaster rule and a trowel. It is necessary to check the presence of a slope all the time using the building level.


      Proportions of concrete mix.

    A stronger surface can be obtained by using iron.   To do this, the surface of wet concrete that has not yet set is sprinkled with dry cement and, using a wide spatula, rub it into the solution. If such decoration of the blind area near the house occurs due to the sifting of cement through a sieve, then you will not have to rub it, it will evenly be distributed evenly without it.

    In hot and dry weather, it is recommended to cover the flooded concrete layer with a wet cloth and periodically water it to ensure that the material sets and does not dry out. The initial setting time of the concrete mixture is 72-96 hours. After that, you can already stand on it without damaging the surface.

    Pavement blind area

    Since the paving slab coating is not as durable as concrete monolith, the base for laying it is made more dense, having a rather thick layer of compacted clay as the lower base, and a cement-sand mixture on top of which the tile is laid.


      Scheme with paving tiles.

    The depth of the trenches for the manufacture of the blind area in this case delves deeper than for the concrete blind area. In order for the covered layers of pain to be more stable, a trench 40-45 cm deep is required.

    A clay layer 20-30 cm thick is laid and rammed at its bottom, which will protect the base from the penetration of groundwater rising in spring. A curb is placed on the clay layer along the edge of the trench, the upper edge of which will not exceed the level of tile laying along the edge of the blind area.

    After this, a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured with a thickness of 10-15 cm and is well rammed. The top layer of gravel should be approximately at ground level. A layer of geotextile is spread on a stone as a protection against germination of weeds, and already on it, paving slabs are laid on a layer of cement-sand mixture.

    Cobblestone

    Differing from paving slabs in greater thickness and better stability, paving stones can be laid simply on a dense sand cushion. To do this, it is enough to dig a trench 15 cm deep, spread geotextiles at the bottom, and fill up a layer of sand that does not reach the top of the trench a little. After this, you need to lay the paving stones, adding sand if necessary.

    To ensure the tightness of the upper layer, all the joints between the stones must be carefully sealed with a cement-sand mixture or cement mortar. The border should not go beyond the upper level of coverage.

    Soft blind area


      Option with crushed stone.

    Soft types of coatings include gangway and other multilayer coatings having as a top layer cobblestones, gravel, pebbles and other bulk materials, under which there is a layer of clay or sand covered with a plastic film. This is the most inexpensive type of coating and it is done very simply, but such a blind area from crushed stone serves no more than 5 years. After this, it is necessary to solve the issue of protecting the foundation again.

    A very important point in the construction of a soft design is the presence of a slope of the waterproofing layer of polyethylene or clay. This is necessary because in this system, water is not removed by the surface coating that passes it, but by a waterproofing layer.

    The device of the warmed system

    An insulated blind area protects the building structures of the foundation from the effects of low temperatures and significantly reduces heat loss from the building. As a heater, a material of sufficient density, strength, hydrophobic and not subject to decay should be used. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam meet these conditions in the best way.


      Photo of a properly insulated blind area at home.

    The insulation process consists of three stages, which are part of the overall scope of work on the construction of the blind area around the building. First, a waterproofing layer in the form of roofing material or hydroisol with a part of the material on the side walls is lined with a thin sand cushion or compacted clay.

    Then the vertical basement is insulated by fixing sheets of thermal insulation on it. During the vertical installation of the sheets, it is necessary to ensure the connection between them in the protruding groove. In cases where this is not possible, the seams should be covered with mounting foam.

    The horizontal layer of insulation is laid on the lower layer of the base of clay or sand. To reduce the cost of buying materials, as a heater, you can use the first layer of polystyrene, and put more durable polystyrene foam on it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seams between the individual sheets do not coincide vertically.

    The further order of how to make a blind area correctly is no different from what was described above.

    There is an opinion that the insulation of such a structure can be provided by filling a layer of expanded clay instead of crushed stone. This opinion is not entirely true. Air gaps remain in the bulk expanded clay layer, in which moisture will accumulate over time, and the thermal insulation properties of such a layer will greatly decrease. If claydite concrete is used, then the required layer thickness will be very large and all the savings will disappear.

    Blind operation and repair

    Cracks or other damage may form on the surface of the concrete pavement over time. This occurs most often as a result of soil subsidence, improperly selected width of expansion joints, the use of low-quality materials and for other reasons. Repair of such damage can be performed using a mixture of bitumen primer, asbestos and sand.


      The market value of the services for the construction of the blind area.

    Initially, the crack expands somewhat and is cleaned with a water stream from debris and dirt. Then you need to let it dry and pour in the mixture.

    Too much damage should be expanded to the desired size, moistened with water and repaired by pouring new concrete. If necessary, the damage volume is reinforced with steel wire or bar. After hardening of the concrete mixture, the restored places must be treated with a primer.

    Master of Architecture, graduated from Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.

    The blind area is an extremely important event. They perform these works after the construction of the house is completed, therefore sometimes insufficient attention is paid to them, a hundred is unacceptable, since the construction of the blind area performs the extremely important task of protecting the foundation from atmospheric moisture. The following describes how the blind area should be done with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for each type of protective strip and recommendations for choosing materials.

    Concrete blind area

    Today this is the most popular way to protect the foundation, but it has a fairly large number of disadvantages, so if you have the financial ability to choose a more expensive and reliable option, it is better to resort to it. Most often, this type of blind area is characteristic of mass urban construction.

    The disadvantages include:


    Production of an element from concrete is carried out in the following order:


    1. Calculation of the thickness of the entire structure in which all layers are required   This value is needed in order to determine the depth of the trench along the perimeter of the foundation.
    2. Determination of geometric dimensions. On average, the width should be taken within 90-100 cm. The slope for concrete is 3-5% (for piece materials - 5%, therefore, in order not to get confused in the values, it is recommended to remember the total - 5%).
    3. Marking out the terrain.   For this, the limits of the future design along the perimeter of the foundation are indicated with pegs with a cord stretched over them.
    4. Then they tear off the trench.   The dimensions in the plan are already limited by the marking, it remains only to dig out the soil to a depth calculated in the first paragraph.
    5. The base soil is carefully compacted.   If possible, make a castle of clay, which will provide additional protection against moisture.
    6. The next layer is a sand cushion.   Sand has three functions: replacing heaving soil, which is very widespread in the country, with conditionally non-porous, leveling the base, and arranging a drainage layer. The sand cushion is made only of large or medium sand. If the blind area is being built with the use of a small fraction, then large shrinkages, cracking and waterproofing are possible. The thickness of the layer is selected depending on the characteristics of the soil. It is important to consider strength and water saturation. If the soil on the site is strong, it will be enough to lay about 200 mm of sand. Unstable substrates may require 500 mm of sand.
    7. Filling from crushed stone performs approximately the same functions as sand.   Here you can use not only gravel, but also gravel or sand-gravel mixture. The blind area on such a base increases the strength of the soil and increases the reliability of the entire structure. At this stage, the preparatory work is completed. Up to this point, there are no fundamental differences in how to make a blind area for the foundation of different materials.
    8. The next step is the exposure of the formwork.   Formwork is needed so that the liquid concrete mixture does not leak beyond the marking. For manufacturing, you can buy boards with a thickness of 22-25mm. You can use old materials in order to save. Walls are put together from the boards, which are installed around the perimeter of the foundation. It is important to install the board directly to the wall of the building, the thickness of the formwork element will provide the necessary expansion joint, the thickness of which is in the range of 20-40 mm. A seam is needed to prevent cracking and deformation of the structure with different shrinkage of the foundation and the blind area.
    9. After the formwork is installed, reinforcing mesh is laid. They will increase the concrete's flexural strength. The diameter of the reinforcement in the mesh is recommended to appoint about 10 mm. This technology of the blind area will ensure its strength and reliability.
    10. Further, the blind area device requires the installation of transverse boards around the entire perimeter of the foundation.   The boards will provide expansion joints that cut the strip into separate sections. The step of the boards is assigned 2 meters.
    11. The next stage is concrete pouring.   For this, a concrete mixture of classes B20 - B22.5 (grade M300) is made. It is such a solution that can ensure the durability of the structure and the necessary strength. It is possible to use concrete of smaller classes, B15 and B17.5 are suitable, but it is worth remembering that the service life will decrease. When using a mixture of B22.5, the standard service life will be approximately 25 years. Filling in each compartment between the boards of expansion joints is performed in one go. After that, a seal is required. There are several ways, but the most common vibration dampers. In the absence of the necessary equipment, you can use bayonet.
    12. After the solution is poured, ironing of the surface is carried out, this is done to increase the strength characteristics.
    13. The penultimate stage of manufacturing a concrete blind area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation is the set of structural strength and maintenance.   At a temperature of +20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity for curing takes 4 weeks. If the temperature is lower, the process slows down significantly. It is necessary to wait at least 70% of the brand strength of concrete. A week or two after pouring, the surface is moistened every 2-3 hours (and at night 2-3 times a night). This is to prevent cracking.
    14. When the concrete has gained 70% strength, it is possible to remove the formwork.   After that, the blind area is completed.

    The paving of the foundation of paving slabs

    The blind area around the house with your own hands in this case has only one drawback - the cost. But in terms of appearance, maintainability and ease of use, it surpasses the previous type.

    The preparatory phase of work is carried out according to paragraphs 1-7 for the manufacture of concrete paving of the foundation.


      Layout of paving slabs
    1. An additional layer of sand of 70-100 mm is laid on crushed stone, while ensuring the necessary slope.
    2. The next step is the installation of tiles.
    3. Close up joints of piece elements with cement-sand mortar.

    More details about this type of construction can be found in the article "Blind from paving slabs." Using the same technology, a cobblestone or ceramic brick structure is mounted.

    Clay blind area

    Arrangement of this type to protect the foundation requires actions in the following order:


      Clay construction device
    1. Preparation according to points 1-7 for concrete paving.
    2. Laying a layer of clay with a thickness of 100-150 mm and its compaction. For the manufacture of clay can be used, which remained after the passage of the foundation pit, but only if it is of good quality and high strength.
    3. The arrangement ends with the creation of a decorative layer. To do this, stones are embedded in the clay layer or laid on top of pebbles. This will create a convenient footpath and strengthen the structure.

    Clay blind area is an inexpensive and not time-consuming option for creating a drainage system along the perimeter of the foundation.

    Membranes

      Design scheme with profiled PVP membrane

    Before making a blind area around the house, it is recommended to consider the option of PVP membranes.

    This material provides the highest degree of protection of supporting structures from atmospheric moisture.

    The technology differs from the usual types of protective blind areas:

    1. Perform steps 1-5 for concrete paving.
    2. Lay a layer of sand, and in it a membrane.
    3. They fall asleep all this with a layer of rubble.
    4. Perform backfill.
    5. Planted grass.

    The blind area from the membrane does not extend to the surface and cannot be used as a sidewalk. Its only function is reliable waterproofing. INthe choice of material depends on the capabilities and wishes of the future owner of the house.



    The most reliable way to protect the foundation of the house is the blind area with your own hands: a step-by-step instruction for the construction of this design is so simple that you can easily do without the help of qualified specialists. Following simple and understandable recommendations, you can build a capital protection for the foundation of your own home at minimal cost and thereby prevent damage to the base surface water.


    Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions for the initial stage of construction

    At the initial stage of construction, you should decide on the choice of the blind area and the main parameters responsible for the quality and reliability of the structure. Private houses and cottages are not safe from erosion of the foundation part by surface waters, therefore it is recommended to use additional protective measures to strengthen the foundation of the building.


    The base of the building is influenced by various natural factors:

    • low temperatures;
    • excess moisture;
    • mechanical damage due to swelling of the soil.

    The stability of the entire building depends on the condition in which the foundation part of the cottage is located, so the protection should be capital and reliable. This function is the main for the blind area, the protective properties of which extend to the basement of the house.


    Photo blind areas around the house and its purpose

    The construction of such a structure as a blind area is designed to minimize the negative impact of natural factors on the foundation of the structure. Of course, it is completely impossible to protect it, but you can achieve the following:

    • divert rain (as well as melt and flood) water from the basement of the house. With the short-term presence of moisture, there will be no significant harm, however, long periods of stagnation of the liquid can disrupt the integrity of this part of the building. Due to the constant effect of moisture, concrete is crumbling, the reinforcing part of the base is exposed and damaged by corrosion. As a result, the rigidity of the frame part of the structure is significantly reduced;
    • suspend soil displacement. Soil is a mobile and capricious substance that affects any building. Depending on the type of foundation part, as well as the area chosen to house the cottage, the following problems may be observed: shifts of soil layers, subsidence or, conversely, swelling of the soil surface, a change in the height of the water horizon. The blind area will reduce the stress on the building caused by these changes;

    • keep the temperature indicators of the foundation and prevent a significant drop in this value in the winter. The construction of an insulated blind area around the house helps in solving this problem, since in the cold period special requirements are put forward to the foundation part, hidden underground, (it must be stable);
    • improve the appearance of the cottage. The blind area can play the role of a frame that makes the facade of the building complete and harmonious. This zone is faced with a siding for a socle, a decorative stone, paving slabs.

    How to determine the width of the blind area around the house and other parameters

    All the main parameters used for the construction of the blind areas are regulated by a number of relevant SNiPs. These data allow you to perform technologically correct and durable designs.

    If we talk about a concrete product, then its width should be 20 cm higher than the end point of the protruding overhang of the roofing material. If there is a drainage system, these parameters should also be taken into account and included in the calculations. The final indicator of the width is influenced by the features of the soil, its type. The generally accepted width value for the blind area is considered to be 100 cm. A monolithic concrete surface will not only provide freedom of movement along the wall of the house, but will also serve as a track.


    The depth level (the depth of the blind area relative to the ground) is calculated based on the level of soil freezing in winter. Most often, this indicator is requested in the information department of the local architecture department or is set according to the table. The blind area should have the ability to move along with the soil, otherwise all its functions will come down to only one thing - water drainage.

    The minimum acceptable value for the thickness of the concrete blind area around the house is 7-10 cm (surface layer). If the building project includes a garage, you should increase this figure to 15 cm so that the structure can withstand high weight loads.


    Protection is required throughout the perimeter of the building, so the length of the blind area depends on the length of the perimeter. The installation area of \u200b\u200bthe concrete porch can be skipped because it is itself a reinforcing structure.

    The blind area around the house: how to properly fill in the structure, additional parameters

    The maximum allowable surface slope is in the range of 1-10 cm / m. In other words, 1-10%. In this case, the angle of inclination should be directed strictly from the foundation. Such a large gap is explained by the fact that the slope angle directly depends on the type of soil, as well as the amount of precipitation characteristic of the region. The most commonly used slope is 2-3 cm / m (i.e. 2-3 °). If you take more, during freezing and icing, the blind area cannot be used as a track.


    Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete pavement around the house. Step 1: marking and preparing the area. Step 2: digging a trench, isolating the foundation with roofing material

    The level of the blind area above the ground (height from the soil level) should pass at a height of at least 5 cm. Due to this, moisture will not accumulate at the edges of the structure, destroy it. Particularly high is the likelihood of damage in winter, when the water hardens and expands, causing tears in the concrete.

    The minimum height of the basement is 50 cm (if you undertake the construction of a rigid type concrete structure) and 30 cm for a soft blind area.

    As for the border, this part has a decorative purpose, so the need for its installation is dictated solely by the capabilities of your budget and personal preferences.


    Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete pavement around the house. Step 3: backfilling with clay layers of 10-15 cm with a layered tamper (practiced when working with adverse soil). Step 4: installation of formwork, falling asleep layer of crushed stone 10-12 cm

    The blind area around the house: the construction device and preparation for work

    The construction of the concrete pavement is based on the formation of a reinforced belt around the perimeter of a residential building.

    The design itself has only two main elements:

  • The underlying layer is formed on the basis of materials with a high level of hygroscopicity, due to which the penetration of water to the foundation of the building is blocked or slowed down. It is best to use sand or clay, geotextiles for these purposes, as well as fine gravel. It is allowed to use several materials from the listed ones at once.
  • Decorative coating - used exclusively for decoration.
  • Creating blind areas around the house with your own hands: types of structures, tools

    The scheme for creating the blind area has much in common with the construction of the foundation part:

    • ditch formation;
    • the manufacture of a shock-absorbing pillow, consisting of layers of rubble and sand;

    • installation of reinforcing rods to create a frame for concrete;
    • fill;
    • finish finish.

    There are several varieties of the blind area, which differ from each other in the following ways:

    • service life;
    • design features;
    • materials used for construction.

    Based on the above characteristics, 3 types of products are distinguished:

    • hard;
    • soft
    • semi-rigid.

    Step-by-step instructions for building a concrete pavement around the house. Step 7: pouring concrete. Step 8: leveling the concrete surface

    Each of these blind areas has its own characteristics, capabilities and construction technology.

    To carry out the work you should arm yourself:

  • With a construction mixer - if you don’t have such an instrument in your arsenal, you can always rent it (without this instrument it is impossible to knead the entire volume, and portionwise mixing of the solution will lead to delamination).
  • Earthmoving tools - crowbar, pickaxe, shovel.
  • Auxiliary tools - spatulas, trowel, construction level, paint brushes.
  • Tanks for making batch.

  • Features blind areas around the house with their own hands made of concrete (rigid structure)

    This group of designs is a monolithic concrete-based product, coatings made using cement casting, as well as paved versions of the blind area.

    Monolithic structures can serve almost as long as the building itself around which they are organized. But the construction of such a system has several significant drawbacks.

    Firstly, this process is rather laborious and requires certain efforts, as well as time. Secondly, construction costs are high. This problem also affects the blind areas with asphalt pavement, which cannot be organized without tar. The use of this binder pays off only if large-scale asphalt laying works are carried out. Within the household, this is not advisable.


    The decorative characteristics of a monolithic system can also be attributed to its shortcomings, since the appearance of an asphalt or concrete site cannot be called beautiful.

    Features of the blind area around the house from paving slabs (semi-rigid construction)

    In semi-rigid systems, the underlying layer is a multilayer pillow. The upper part of the structure is formed of pavers or paving slabs. In addition to these materials, other types of coatings can be used:

    • porcelain tile;
    • cobblestones;
    • reinforced concrete slabs.

    Semi-rigid type blind areas take up much less money and effort to fill around the house in comparison with monolithic structures. Construction technology in this case is quite simple, however, it can not be applied on heaving soils, which can violate the integrity of the system.


    Otherwise, semi-rigid blind areas are considered the best option for all the most important indicators:

    • external characteristics;
    • cost;
    • quality.

    Advantages of semi-rigid type systems:

  • Long service life - subject to all requirements of the construction technology, the design can last for 20-30 years.
  • There are no restrictions on climatic conditions - only permafrost zones are an exception.
  • High level of maintainability.
  • Low construction costs.

  • Features soft blind area around the house

    For the construction of a soft-type system, a multilayer pillow is formed, which is covered with a layer of crushed stone from above. This type of blind area requires the lowest possible cost and effort, which cannot affect the service life. The average is only 7 years.

    On the other hand, this type of construction can be used in any climatic zones. There are no significant restrictions on the type of soil. As for repair work, this process in this case is quite simple.

    In fact, the use of a soft system is advisable only as a temporary measure, for example, if you are limited in monetary, labor resources or simply do not have free time. The need to replace the structure every 5-7 years is the main disadvantage of the soft blind area.


    Making blind areas around the house: the right choice of materials

    To install the blind area around the house with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

    • components for the preparation of concrete mortar. If you are not well versed in this matter, you can purchase a ready-made version of the mixture in dry form. Concrete quality can range from 100-1000. This indicator is called a brand - it reflects the amount of cement contained in the solution. In addition, concrete has such a characteristic as strength. It is reflected by the class of material. Modern mixtures can have a class in the range of B3.5-B8. If we take class B15 as an example, then 1 m3 of concrete pouring with dimensional parameters of 15x15x15 cm is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa. Optimum quality of cement for work: class B15, grade M 200;
    • sand - necessary for the formation of the lower layer of the pillow. It is recommended to use quarry or river sand in the form of large particles without impurities, as they can damage geotextiles;

    • crushed stone with a granule size of 1-2 cm;
    • geotextile or natural clay - used in the construction of a hydraulic lock.

    The solution for the blind area around the house with your own hands: how to fill the structure correctly

    To create a solution with your own hands, you must prepare all the necessary components in advance.

    As we found out earlier, the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement, as well as by its quantity in the components of the solution (% content). For the manufacture of blind areas, it is recommended to take Portland cement M 400. It should be fresh, since each month of delay is fraught with material loss of 5% of its useful properties.

    Checking how fresh the cement is is quite simple. To do this, you need to take a handful of material and compress your hand tightly into a fist. Expiring cement will crumple into a lump, while a friable structure will indicate freshness. The fresher the material and the higher its grade, the better the solution will be.


    Sand should be sifted, clean. It is better if it is thoroughly washed from impurities of clay, soil, etc. The optimal size of crushed stone fractions for preparing the solution is 0.5-1 cm. Water of room temperature will be required.

    To obtain a quality solution, additional additives are needed. They increase the frost resistance of concrete. Most often, liquid glass is used for these purposes.

    A blind area around the house: how to make a mortar for pouring (proportion) yourself

    The quality of pouring, its strength and durability depend on the proportions of the main components of the concrete mortar. The quantity of materials is determined only by weight.

    The calculation of the proportions for the solution:

    Concrete mix makes special demands regarding the amount of liquid. Excess water is able to dilute the solution and reduce the strength of concrete, since cement flour is gradually removed into the upper layer. As a result, the density of the components will be unevenly distributed.

    The most commonly used ratio of water to cement is 1: 2. If you want to get the most accurate value, you should check it according to the table of the water-cement ratio for concrete mortar (W / C).

    The introduction of components into the solution is also carried out according to a strict sequence:

  • Cement is poured into the concrete mixer (use of a different container is allowed if you use a construction mixer for mixing).
  • Water is poured and the solution is mixed until a cement milk is formed.
  • Sand is poured in portions as further mixing.
  • Crushed stone is added.

  • We make a pillow for the blind area around the house correctly

    The pillow, which performs the function of the underlying layer, has the same construction scheme, regardless of what type of blind area is selected. An exception is the manufacturing process of the blind area around the house with their own hands from concrete with a monolithic type of structure. It will require a different technology.

    The main components of the pillow are:

    • sand;
    • clay;
    • priming.

    If you prefer to organize a soft-type system around the house, a layer of gravel is poured over it. For semi-rigid structures on top of the formed pillow, you will need to fill up an additional layer of crushed stone and sand. Only after this can you start laying pavers or paving slabs.


    Before pouring a blind area with a hard platform around the house, you should equip a sand and gravel pillow:

    • fill in the sand;
    • pour crushed stone;
    • perform installation of insulation;
    • perform the reinforcement procedure and other types of work.

    The blind area around the house with your own hands: we do the preparation of the construction zone

    First you need to outline the perimeter of the blind area through the formation of a trench. Its depth directly depends on the type of soil. The minimum indicator is 0.15-0.2 m. Construction work on heaving types of soil is accompanied by special requirements. In this case, the depth of the trench increases to 0.3 m.


    A simple way to apply markup:

  • At the corners, metal rods are driven into the soil. Alternatively, you can use wooden pegs.
  • Along the perimeter are intermediate pegs.
  • By pulling a mooring cord or any other rope all the pegs are connected. This line will be used as a guide and marking.
  • At this stage of the work, a gap can be created separating the construction of the blind area from the foundation of the building. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a polyurethane-based sealant and damping tape.

    Next, the required bias of the system is set. This is done based on the type of design you choose. To achieve a certain slope, you need to dig a trench so that at the slope points there is a different depth.


    The bottom of the formed trench must be carefully tamped using the most ordinary log. To do this, it is installed vertically, rises and falls down with effort, so that the soil at the bottom is compacted.

    Construction of the blind area around the house: how to properly install the formwork

    For work, boards are required whose thickness is 30-40 mm. The height is selected taking into account the parameters of the future design. To facilitate your work, you can pre-mark the height of future pillow layers on the material. At the corners, the structure can be pulled together and strengthened with the help of corners. This is done from the outside. In this case, it is recommended to use bolts, since they are most easily removed during dismantling of the formwork. The optimum diameter of the fastener is 10 mm.


    In order to ensure the stability of the boards of the formwork structure, you can use inclined supports or install blocks, bricks. In the process, you will need to perform a temperature seam. This seam should lie not only at the junction of the walls of the building with the blind area, but also across the system. If you ignore this requirement, over time, the natural displacement of the soil, provoked by temperature differences, will lead to the appearance of cracks in the structure.

    Arrangement of transverse seams is carried out with a certain interval. A distance of 2 meters will be enough. To form the gaps of the required size, you can use boards whose thickness is not more than 20 mm.

    If you plan a system that does not involve casting, you can do without installing a formwork structure.


    The blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house: how to make a sand and gravel pillow

    The formed trench is covered with a sandy layer. The thickness of the sand layer depends on the total depth of the trench - the optimal parameter is 100-150 mm. For these purposes, it is recommended to use fine river sand. This layer will play the role of waterproofing.

    After this, the sand should be carefully compacted in the same way, as was done earlier when forming the bottom of the trench. To achieve high compaction, the interlayer can be moistened with water.

    An embankment with a thickness of 50-100 mm from crushed stone is formed on top of the sand. It is better if a material with a different fraction size is used, due to which maximum filling of voids and high density of the pillow will be ensured. Crushed stone can be replaced with other types of materials, for example, brick fight or gravel. This layer is designed to divert water that penetrates through sand.


    The process of creating sand and gravel pillows. Step 1: pour sand with a layer of 10 cm with pouring and tamping, along the wall of the house put a ruberoid with a height from the base of the trench to the proposed top of the blind area (expansion joint)

    If groundwater runs in the construction zone in the immediate vicinity of the surface, a geotextile should be laid between the sand and gravel layer to provide additional waterproofing protection. At the same time, it is worth laying the material with a small margin so that the edges go into the walls of the formwork structure.

    In the process of forming a pillow of crushed stone and sand, do not forget about observing the angle of inclination, if any. On this work on the arrangement of pillows completed. The further procedure depends on the type of construction chosen.


    The process of creating sand and gravel pillows. Step 2: put geotextiles on compacted sand, pour crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm and a layer thickness of 10 cm with clotting with a vibrating plate

    The construction of concrete paving around the house: the price of work, recommendations

    The concrete structure of the blind area is suitable for owners of cottages who prefer capital goods with long service life. The price of the blind area around the house is quite high compared to other systems. However, the costs in this case are fully justified by the long service life, high strength and reliability of the blind area.

    An excellent option would be a reinforced concrete system with insulation. Thanks to the layer of heat-insulating material, the operational and technical characteristics of the basement and foundation parts of the house and the entire building increase.


    The optimal width of the system with insulation should correspond to the index of the depth of freezing of the soil or exceed this value. The price of the blind area around the house, which cannot be done without significant financial investments, according to experts, in this case will be too high. In addition, the system will occupy a lot of usable area. Therefore, it should be limited to 0.7-0.9 m.

    Concrete blind area around the house: how much does it cost to make a construction

    The construction of the structure around the house can be done independently or hired for this purpose workers specializing in the construction of the blind area. If you are not confident in your own knowledge and strengths, it is most reasonable to entrust the work to professionals. In this case, the expense item will contain not only the cost of purchasing materials, but also the payment for the services of craftsmen.

    Services for the construction of blind areas around the house (price per square meter):

    Name of service Cost of work, rub / m?
    Dismantling the old structure 65
    Marking and soil preparation (soil removal to a depth of 0.6 m) 300
    Construction of a hydraulic lock (clay) 100
    Installation of insulating material (geotextile, film) 40
    Pillow formation (0.5 cm sand layer + tamper) 80
    Pillow formation (crushed stone layer 10 cm) 80
    Installation of a storm inlet 250
    Installation of the pipeline (mp) 50
    Formation of the blind area from the finished mixture 300
    Formation of the blind area + mixing of concrete 650

    The average cost of construction (services of masters) costs about 1300 rubles. If we talk about the price, making the blind area around the house with concrete with your own hands is much cheaper than hiring qualified specialists for these purposes, since in this case financial investments are required only for the purchase of materials.

    DIY insulated blind area construction: step-by-step instructions

    As a material for the blind area, various materials can be used. For concrete structures, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene. The technology in this case will change slightly, since it will not be possible to remove the wooden formwork. The insulation is glued to the boards using a specialized bonding agent for polystyrene foam.


    Step-by-step instruction for the construction of an insulated blind area: 1 - marking, preparation of the trench; 2 - creating a sand cushion; 3 - sand compaction; 4 - laying roofing material along the foundation; 5 - installation of formwork; 6 - laying insulation (foam)

    After completing the installation of side heat-insulating plates, it is necessary to form a pillow according to the technology that was considered earlier.

    Making concrete blind area around the house with your own hands: installation of insulation

    In this case, the technology of double-layer thermal insulation using extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene will be used.

    This is done in the following order:

  • Installation of a foam layer (during installation, the plates should be laid very tightly, temporarily fixing their position with bricks).
  • Fill the gaps between the slabs using foam.
  • Removing the protruding parts of the foam after it has completely dried (use a sharp knife for these purposes).
  • Installation of plates of extruded polystyrene foam over foam.

  • Step-by-step instruction for the construction of an insulated blind area: 7 - laying a layer of geotextile or roofing material; 8 - dividing the perimeter into sectors no more than 2 m long, setting jumpers taking into account the slope; 9 - setting jumpers at angles of 45% relative to external angles for converging slopes on different sides of the blind area; 10 - laying reinforcement; 11 - pouring concrete; 12 - leveling the concrete surface using a rule or a regular board

    At the end zones of the expanded polystyrene plates there are grooves that exclude the possibility of gaps between the elements after laying. Installation is carried out in such a way that the seams of the upper layer do not coincide with the seams of the lower foam layer. For cutting material, you can use a regular knife with sharp sharpening of the blade.

    The blind area around the house made of concrete: how to make reinforcement

    The next step is the reinforcement. As the main material, a finished mesh can be used. It can also be made independently, using reinforcement 0.8-1 cm thick. For this, a grid with a mesh size of 15x15 cm is formed from the rods. Fixation is performed in the areas of intersection of the reinforcement. Specialty clips are sold in stores that facilitate this process.

    The mesh is laid on the base with a slight indentation. To do this, you can use latches-supports. Instead of clamps, the use of other materials is allowed, for example, stones, brick fighting, etc.


    The foundation part is poured with an indent of 5 cm. But in this case, this indentation will significantly affect the height of the structure, so a gap of 0.5-1 cm should be left.

    The blind area around the house: video how to fill the structure and protect it

    With the preparation of concrete for pouring, the construction of the blind area around the house begins, how to make the mixture correctly has already been described previously. For a reinforced concrete structure, grade M 400 is required (minimum). Cement should be mixed with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 3: 4, respectively. The amount of liquid is selected in such a way that as a result a mass of normal density is obtained. The solution should be flexible and homogeneous.

    The prepared solution is poured onto the base. It must be spread over the surface with a mop or any other suitable tool, such as a rule. The side walls of the formwork structure can be used as beacons.


    After the filling has been completed, the concrete needs to be pierced in several places to free the outlet for excess air. Use a reinforcing bar for these purposes. Then you should fill these holes with the mixture and sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of cement (dry powder). According to the requirements of the technology, at least 28 days should be allowed to dry the fill.

    The design needs to be protected from the effects of precipitation. The blind area must be covered with a film of polyethylene.

    Now you know how the blind area around the house is done with your own hands, a video - technology review will help to more thoroughly understand this issue:

    The blind area around the house: how to make a soft design

    To equip the soft blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to organize a trench and fill up a layer of sand. Remember to set the embankment to the desired angle.

    Next, waterproofing material is laid on the sand. Ruberoid is the most popular material used for these purposes, but rubemast, despite its cost, has longer service life.

    For a shuttering structure with a width of 0.8 m, cutting of the material will be required, because rubemast is sold in the form of rolls with a width of 1 m. If you do not want to cut it, the excess parts can simply be bent and glued with molten bitumen to the wall.


    On the waterproofing layer you need to make a mound (10 cm) of sand and gravel (these materials are mixed in equal proportions). It needs to be tamped and leveled, observing at the same time the necessary angle of inclination.

    The soft blind area needs an additional layer of crushed stone. Crushed stone (3-5 cm) is poured over the mixture and compacted. Thanks to this additional layer, the blind area will not undergo subsidence during operation. In conclusion, you can mask the boards of the formwork with decorative borders.

    You can use additional information on the construction of the blind area around the house. The video how to make each layer clearly reflects all the features of this process:

    Do-it-yourself paving from the paving slabs: step-by-step instructions

    The construction of the paving of paving slabs and pavers is the same. The choice of topcoat depends entirely on budget options and preferences.

    Paving stones have only one significant drawback - the price of tiles for the blind area around the house is much lower than this material.

    The average prices for paving stones:

    Name, dimensional parameters Number of elements in 1 m? Cost, rub / m?
    Grey Red Brown Blue Green The black
    Rectangle (190/90/57) 58,5 360 430 430 510 540 430
    Wave (220/110/60) 39 400 460 460 660 560 460
    Coil (198/163/70) 35 420 460 460 690 590 460
    Flower (110/110/60) 78 440 460 460 660 560 460
    Shell (188/173/70) 30 420 460 460 690 590 460
    Brick (200/100/70) 50 410 460 460 690 560 460
    Monomakh hat (brick + 2 pentagons) 8/16 430 460 460 690 590 460
    Pentagon (280/240/70) 20 430 460 460 660 590 460

    After analyzing the data from the table, you can see that the cost of purchasing paving stones or tiles for the blind area around the house largely depends on the size parameters, shape and color of the material.

    The blind area around the house: video how to make a construction, paving technology

    For the blind area, a sand-gravel cushion is formed from the tile in the manner that was previously described. Only in this case it will be necessary to make an additional layer of sand (8-10 cm) on top of it.


    The paving technology is simple enough so that this procedure can be performed independently. Installation of tiles can be started from any angle that seems convenient to you. As you pave, you should move in the direction away from you. In the process, it is recommended to use the brickwork method.

    So that the tile fits snugly to the base, it is better to use a special tool - a rubber mallet.

    Tile installation diagram using a mallet:

    • lay the tile on the surface of the base;

    • on top of the tiles should be placed a wooden plank;
    • using a mallet, gently and carefully press the tile, tapping the tool on the plank.

    Do not forget to use the building level to check the tiling. Not only the tile itself, but also all the rows should be evenly spaced in relation to each other. In some cases, you may experience material subsidence. This problem is solved by adding sand under the corresponding coating elements. The protruding sections can be put in place with a mallet.

    When paving, it is very important to observe the necessary slope of the blind area. Tiles fit the entire surface of the system. To cut the material to the desired size, it is recommended to use a grinder.

    The blind area around the house: how to repair a concrete system with your own hands

    During operation, the concrete blind area can be destroyed. But if you do the repair of the blind areas around the house with your own hands, you can not only extend the service life of this design, but also save significantly on the payment for the services of masters.

    The most common problems:

    • occurrence of cracks;
    • stratification of the surface;
    • crumbling.

    The cost of repairing the blind area around the house, done by yourself, depends on several factors. First of all, the cost of the work depends on the degree of neglect of the structure, as well as the method that was chosen to repair the damage. Equally important is the type of material, its quantity.


    Do-it-yourself methods for repairing cracks in the blind area

    Cracks in the blind area are of a different nature. Such damage can be classified as crevices, concrete breaks or crevices. It depends on the depth of damage. Methods for dealing with cracks in each case will correspond to the depth and severity of these damage.

    Table of repair methods for the blind area and the necessary materials:

    Damage depth Elimination method Repair Materials
    1 mm "Self-healing" small cracks are not dangerous for the structure, they are self-eliminating in the process of walking along the blind area
    1-3 mm "Cement paste" cracks are filled with a mortar consisting of cement and water in 1: 1 proportions
    3-30 mm concrete pouring;
      formation of water seals;
      the use of sealants
    pouring with concrete requires preliminary expansion of cracks to a conical shape and application of a primer (Cerezit ST-17); Lugato 5 Mortel putty will be required to form a water seal; ISOSEAL P-40, TECTOR 103 is suitable for sealing cracks with sealant
    more than 30 mm concrete pouring damages of this size are considered structural splits and can only be repaired by concrete pouring.

    How elimination of delamination and crumbling

    The second most common problem is stratification. Specialists call this process delamination or dusting of concrete.

    There are several prerequisites for the appearance of the bundle:

  • Uneven solidification of concrete mortar (occurs in spring when pouring concrete on a cold base).
  • Too much construction thickness.
  • Exceeding the norm of air content in the solution.
  • Exceeding the proportion of crushed stone in concrete mortar.

  • If the surface of the blind area crumbles or delaminates, the structure should be treated using a “cement paste”. To eliminate this problem, the use of compositions with liquid glass is allowed. The main components of the solution are water, cement, water glass in equal proportions.

    Damage repair scheme:

  • Analysis of the situation, determination of the boundaries of damage.
  • Cutting down concrete parts.
  • Processing the marginal zone with a primer.
  • Application of the solution to the damage zone.
  • Covering the solution with a film.
  • The area of \u200b\u200brepair should be kept under the film until the solution completely dries.


    Additional protective measures

    There are several ways to protect the concrete pavement from premature destruction:

    • ironing method;
    • primer coating;
    • liquid glass processing;
    • facing with a natural stone or installation of a tile covering.

    Regardless of what type of structure you choose (rigid, semi-rigid or soft system), it is recommended to install a storm shower near the blind area. Using this element, siltation of the household plot can be eliminated by draining the flowing water to a suitable place for this.