The need to equip stove heating is most often associated with the lack of other alternatives - you cannot reach the gas main, and it is unprofitable to heat the house with electricity. On the other hand, the enduring popularity of wood-burning stoves is associated with the amazing feeling of real home warmth and comfort that can only be obtained from a crumbling, crackling hearth. As you know, you can admire fire endlessly, so why not provide your home with inexpensive heat at the same time? But for this you have to build such a heating device that could provide a visual picture, had good heat transfer and fit organically into the interior. These requirements are fully met by Swedish ovens, which, among other things, will also allow you to cook or reheat food. Let's not hide the fact that the Swede (and this is how this wonderful structure has long been called in Russia) presents certain difficulties in manufacturing. Nevertheless, using our recommendations, drawings and ordering diagrams, even a novice master can build a practical and extremely warm Swedish oven with his own hands.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking ovens

The classic Swedish oven is both beautiful and functional

According to the existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII in the distant 1700. Nevertheless, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device known in our country as "Swede" was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new design wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the king of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests, which the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages, had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The dwellings of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces, requiring constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous "Dutch women", which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has come down to our days that “everything new is a well-forgotten old”, Swedish scientists didn’t use the design for a long time. It was based on a well-studied Dutch stove, which was carefully redesigned during the work.

The changes primarily concerned functionality - the Swedish woman was provided with a cooking pit, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to keep the cooked food warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the partition between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heat needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

• heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
• Swedish woman with stove and oven;
• a wood-burning heater equipped with a stove, oven (one or two) and a hot water tank;
• double-sided type stove-fireplace - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part goes into the hall or living room;
• Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, can have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they practically did not change over several centuries. We can say with full confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

• compact dimensions;
• functional and practical design;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• fast heating due to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
• versatility;
• undemanding to fuel - you can burn any types of solid fuel, from shavings and reeds to coal;
• the variability of the heater - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• profitability;
• the possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the "Swede" are the same as those of other channel furnaces. First of all, this is rapid cooling with an open valve, as well as the need for periodic cleaning of the unit channels from soot. In addition, a wood-fired heat generator puts forward increased requirements for construction technology - only new, high-quality bricks are suitable for making a "Swede", and in the process of work, increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency will be required.

The device and secrets of high efficiency

The Swedish stove begins to radiate heat as soon as the first stable flames appear. The secret of such possibilities comes from the decision of Scandinavian scientists to install the oven (in the above diagram, it is indicated by the number 1) immediately behind the firebox. The heat from the burning volatile gases, which the stove-makers call its first heat, makes its metal red-hot, and the side outlet allows you to successfully arrange the interior of the furnace. Due to an obstacle installed in the path of hot gases, it was possible to reduce their initial speed - at a high flame intensity, heat does not escape into the pipe, as is the case in most channel furnaces. In addition, as you can see in the diagram, in this case, the roof of the firebox serves as a kind of bell, under which pyrolysis residues are well burned out. The advantage of such an arrangement of the oven is also that the combustion products enveloping its surface go down, so the walls of the heating unit begin to warm up literally from the floor, and one of the components of successful heat transfer is a large surface area, isn't it?

Swedish oven device

The hob (2) and the recess above it also contribute to the high heat output. Thanks to heating with the first heat, the heat from them dissipates no worse than from the oven. After the first heat begins to spread throughout the house, the niche can be covered with a wooden flap. Even after the firewood has completely burned out, the heat in the opening will be saved for 6-8 hours, which is convenient to use to keep cooked food warm.

The niche (3), located in the upper tier, is more spacious and does not warm up so much, therefore, if necessary, you can dry wet clothes in it. As in the lower recess, its rear part is thin-walled. Due to this, the rear side is effectively warmed up in all operating modes of the furnace, from intense combustion to the smoldering of hot coals.

The Swede does not have hailo in the traditional understanding of this part of the stove. Scientists decided to abolish the vaulted element due to the complexity and rise in the cost of the structure, replacing it with a simple window for the overflow of gases from the space under the oven.

Gas flow diagram in furnace channels

Khailo in wood-burning stoves is a vaulted smoke collector between the firebox and heat exchange channels or chimney, designed to redirect the gas flow and improve draft. The hailo, precisely calculated and equipped according to all the rules, will not let smoke into the room, even in stoves with open fuel chambers, including barbecue units or simple fireplaces.

The enterprising Swedes completely borrowed the heat collector from the Dutch, equipping it according to a proven scheme with vertical channels. Of course, in this case, the upper part of the stove heats up more, but the built-in oven evens out the temperature gradient along the height of the heater quite well. Thanks to the classic design of the heat exchanger, less soot is generated in the ducts. At the same time, it is much more convenient to clean the unit, and this is important, since the furnace was originally developed for any type of fuel.

In fact, furnaces were originally developed with two types of heat exchangers - vertical and horizontal. The unit of the second type was installed in their homes by wealthy Swedes, who always had a servant on hand to clean the canals. Now, such a heating device is extremely rare.

The Swedish stove was most often installed in the wall between the rooms, so there was an additional opportunity to turn its channels into a stove bench. For the most part, ordinary Swedes used this opportunity, but the nobility preferred to equip a more presentable structure in this place - a fireplace.

The design of the heat exchange channels of the Swede was borrowed from the Dutch ovens popular at that time.

Thanks to innovations in the fuel and heat exchange part, the Swedish stove was at that time a model of excellence. Of course, in comparison with the Dutch woman, it cost the owner more, and it was more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the high power and unique heat dissipation of the Swede made it popular for the next two hundred years.

Basic parameters, drawings, diagrams and orders

• plate - 710x410 mm;
• combustion chamber: height 280-330 mm, width 300-350 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• oven: height 280-300 mm, width 330-380 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• the distance from the front surface of the oven to the edge of the grate is 190-250 mm (from ¾ to 1 brick).

Since the oven is located in a high-temperature zone, increased requirements are imposed on its wall thickness. Thin metal will not work here as it will burn out over several seasons. It is also not recommended to take too thick material - a massive structure will warm up much worse, which is fraught not so much with a decrease in heat transfer as with underburning. As a result, the furnace is characterized by increased soot formation and reduced efficiency. The best material for the oven is structural steel with a thickness of 3-4 mm.

When designing a Swede, there is no need to strictly adhere to the dimensions indicated above. If it is necessary to increase its thermal power of the unit, then it will not be possible to achieve this by simple burnout - it will be necessary to proportionally increase the size of all parts of the heater.

To build a Swedish stove with an oven and a hob, it is best to use the procedures and diagrams that we give below.

Drawing of the internal channels of the furnace

Dimensions of the Swedish oven

Dimensions Swedish

Orderings of the classic Swedish oven

The order of the stove in the language of specialists denotes a drawing, which indicates the exact order of laying bricks in each row, as well as presents the features of the arrangement of floors and determines the installation locations of all structural elements - grates, doors, dampers, stoves and ovens.

In the case when it is planned to equip the back of the heating unit with a fireplace, it is brought out into a common gas channel with the Swede, or a separate chimney is installed. In the first case, it will not be possible to heat both devices at the same time, since the flow area of ​​the gas duct will not allow. The stove will have to be equipped with an additional damper that will cut off the idle unit. The second method will require additional expenditures of labor and materials, but will provide a unique opportunity to operate two heating devices in one thermodynamic space.

What is needed for the construction of a heating device

The furnace, which is offered for manufacture, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is due to the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece once again, which significantly reduces the construction time. The principle of the multiplicity of the dimensions of the furnace to the size of the red brick is also recommended when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

In the process of masonry, you will need both simple red and refractory fireclay bricks.

By the way, in the Scandinavian countries, whole sets are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This "constructor" includes everything you need, including a mixture for preparing a solution. We will be able to save a little, since the thrifty and economical owner will always find something from the list of necessary materials below. So, here is a list of what you need:

• 500-700 pcs. high-quality red brick of the M-150 and higher brand, which must necessarily go through a good firing and not have foreign inclusions more than required by GOST;
• refractory fireclay brick of the SHA-8 brand (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate laying);
• furnace and blower doors - 1 pc .;
• cleaning doors - 4 pcs .;
• pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
• oven;
• grate bars;
• cast iron two-burner stove;
• metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
• exhaust valve;
• sheet steel;
• cement;
• sand;
• construction mesh for reinforcement;
• rammer;
• formwork boards;
• a rule with a length of at least 1 m;
• refractory masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
• asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not take advantage of the original developments of the foundry designers when choosing it?

The tools that will be needed for the preparation of the solution and the actual construction of the Swedish oven:

• construction hammer pickaxe;
• trowel;
• wooden or rubber mallet;
• jointing;
• construction level;
• square;
• cord and plumb;
• roulette;
• shovel shovel;
• containers for solution.

You cannot do without a comfortable trowel during the construction process

The classic Swedish stove, unlike the Dutch stove, is not tiled or tiled. Nevertheless, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the independent laying of the Swedish oven, it is necessary to equip a reliable foundation and prepare a working solution. When choosing a place for a heater, two basic rules are followed. First, the unit is installed in a wall between two rooms, preferably in a corner. Second, the chimney of the stove should be as close to the center of the building as possible. In this case, the pipe for the exit of combustion products will be in the most advantageous place - near the ridge, which will give good traction and ensure that the structure meets fire safety standards.

Installation diagram of the outer part of the chimney

It is best if the foundation of the future furnace is laid simultaneously with the foundation of the house. In this case, both bases should be separated by a sand cushion - it will prevent dangerous displacements of the heater if the support shrinks under the walls of the house.

Having chosen a place for installing a Swedish heat generator, they outline the contour of the foundation. We remind you that it should protrude beyond the outer perimeter of the stove by at least 10-15 cm. If a plank floor interferes with the construction of the base, then a cutout is made in it, corresponding to the section of the heater. After that, a pit is dug, the depth of which corresponds to the point of freezing of the soil.

The bottom of the pit is tamped and covered with a layer of sand 100 to 200 mm thick. A sandy pillow is poured with water and covered with rubble to a height of 150-170 mm. The drainage layer is well compacted, after which formwork is installed along the edges of the pit. Usually she is knocked out of just about anything. We recommend taking even low-grade, but even edged boards. Remember that neatly knocked down and aligned to the level of the side of the formwork will allow you to build a perfectly flat foundation with a minimum of time and effort.

The structure is lined from the inside with polyethylene or roofing felt, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed at a height of 5-10 cm from the bottom. Then thick concrete is kneaded, which includes 1 part of M-400 cement, 3 parts of sand and 6 parts of crushed stone. The solution is poured into the prepared fence, after which the surface of the slab is compacted and leveled. The initially level edged boards greatly simplify this work. All that needs to be done to obtain a perfectly flat foundation is to follow them with a rule that can cover both sides of the formwork structure.

The device of the foundation of the Swedish stove

The poured concrete is left for several days, and after it has completely set, the wooden shield is removed and the foundation is covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

The preparation of the mortar begins with kneading and soaking the clay. After that, sand is added to it and the mixture is thoroughly mixed. The amount of one or another component is determined depending on the fat content of the clay - the higher this indicator, the more sand will be required. It is not necessary to immediately prepare a large amount of the solution, since during settling it will be divided into its constituent parts - you will have to do all the work again. As for the factory refractory compositions, then, among other things, they also have a shelf life when mixed, which is recommended to be strictly observed. Experienced stove-makers use up to 20 liters of masonry mixture for every hundred bricks. It is on this figure that it is recommended to be guided in the process of preparing for work.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a stove with your own hands

Before laying the first brick, you should understand the basic rule of high-quality masonry - control and control again. Not only the first row should be ideally laid out, but all niches, corners and internal chambers and channels. To do this, the stove-maker should always have a building level, a square and a cord at hand. Novice craftsmen are advised to pull vertical plumb lines in all corners and install a horizontal mooring cord for each row. This will ensure the correct geometry of the heater, even in spite of small imperfections in the thickness of the joints.

So that during laying the moisture from the clay solution is not absorbed by the pores of the brick, it must be soaked. For this, the required amount of building material is placed in a vat of cold water and left for one day.

In order not to get confused with the numerous stages of masonry, it is recommended to print the ordering scheme, and carry out the work itself according to a strictly outlined plan.

1 row. The masonry of the first row is carried out especially carefully, controlling all parameters using a level and a square. It is laid out solidly on a waterproofed foundation, after which it is completely filled with working solution.
Inside the masonry, the use of brick halves is allowed, provided they are securely bandaged with the next row. It is recommended that the outer walls be made only with whole bricks - this will ensure a beautiful appearance of the furnace after joining.

The laying of the first rows forms the base of the furnace, therefore it is carried out in continuous

2 row laid out similarly to the first - a continuous array according to the ordering scheme. The first two rows are given special attention, as they must form a solid and stable base of the oven.

3rd and 4th row forms an ash pan. A blower and three cleaning doors are also installed here. In order for the place of their abutment to the wall not to crack during the operation of the furnace (and this will necessarily happen due to the different thermal expansion of metal and ceramics), the cracks around the door frames are sealed with an asbestos or basalt seal.

When installing the door, you will need to trim the front side of the brick

Beginning with 5 rows, install the oven and build in the grate. After that, an overlap is mounted over the cleaners and the blower door. The upper brick is laid on a metal corner, which is cut into the bricks of the lower row.

One of the options for installing the grate

WITH 6 to 10th row lay out the combustion chamber. A partition is installed between the firebox and the oven, which is used as a fireclay brick installed on the edge. When overlapping the firebox, an opening should form above the bulkhead, so its height relative to the upper plane is reduced by 1 brick. After laying the tenth row, a cast-iron stove with burners is installed above the furnace opening. Its compaction is performed using the same asbestos or basalt cardboard. For additional strength, the brick edge is protected from the front side with a metal corner. For its reliable fastening, drills are made on both sides, into which steel wire is threaded. Installed in the inter-brick seam, it will prevent the corner from shifting and provide it with additional strength. The same corner is installed to protect the upper edge of the opening, supported by the side bricks of the 16th row.

In the course of the masonry, jointing is done. In this case, it is important not to allow the solution to completely dry out.

Stacking 11 row, block the channel separating the firebox and the flue on the right side of the furnace.

WITH 12th to 16th row lay out the cooking opening and vertical channels. The openings of the gas ducts in this place must be filled with refractory bricks.

Scheme of ordering forming vertical channels

17-18th row needed to form the overlap of the niche, which is located above the slab. The bricks of the upper row are supported by a strip of steel sheet laid over the metal corners.

Starting out 19th and 20th row, two hatches are attached to the front wall for cleaning the gas ducts.

Arrangement for building up the kiln array

WITH 21 to 28th row build up the vertical channels of the heater. Laying out the 27th row, an oven valve is installed, over which a technological opening is left.

29th and 30th row slightly widen around the perimeter (a protrusion of 50 mm is sufficient), receiving the cornice of the furnace. These two rows block the chimney channels, leaving only one opening for the exit of combustion products into the chimney.

Oven overlap order

V 31 row the section of the furnace is reduced - it must correspond to the parameters of the 27th row.

Beginning with 32 rows, lay out the chimney. The cross-section of its channel is taken equal to 130x250 mm - standard dimensions allow laying with a whole brick.

Chimney orders

The chimney must be driven to the required height and equipped with a hood, after which the construction of the stove can be considered complete.

Launch of the Swede into operation

It is best to build a stove in the summer or early fall, so that the masonry can dry out the natural heat. In a cold season, various devices will help to remove moisture from the walls and channels - heaters, heat guns, etc.

Drying the oven at an air temperature of at least 20 ° C is performed within 10-12 days. This opens all doors and latches. If moisture is removed forcibly, then a fan heater is placed in the firebox, and all furnace openings are closed, leaving an air passage to the chimney.

The Swedish oven at work

1. For two weeks, the Swede is heated with minimal fires, which is formed from small, thin logs. In this case, it is advisable not to allow the oven to cool completely. The quality of the primary firing is checked using crumpled newspapers, which are placed in the cleaning channels. The low intensity of the flame will prevent the paper from catching fire, but whether it is wet or dry after firing, it will serve as an excellent indicator of the quality of drying.
2. Hot firing is also carried out gradually, heating the furnace several times a day, in the morning and in the evening. Power is increased gradually, each time slightly increasing the amount of fuel.

Compliance with the rules of drying and firing will strengthen and harden the masonry seams, which will serve as a guarantee of reliable and long-term operation of the Swedish oven.

The frequency of cleaning the heater ducts depends on the quality of the fuel and can be performed 1-2 times a year. The best firewood is, of course, large birch logs - they will give both flame and prolonged heat. Experienced stove-makers recommend heating the stove with dry aspen once every two weeks - it helps to remove soot naturally. But it is unsafe to burn out the stove with various flammable substances - this can lead to a fire. Unfortunately, even in our high-tech era, there is no better way to remove soot by hand with scrapers and brushes.

Video: ordering the Swedish stove

As you probably already understood yourself, it is impossible to build a Swedish stove from just about anything - first of all, you will need high-quality materials. In addition, experienced stove-makers recommend starting construction only in a good mood - then the matter will go well, and the work progresses faster, and, as they say, the soul sings. We advise you to approach the process with all the scrupulousness and patience that you are only capable of. Believe me, the Swede will thank you for this with such comfort and cozy warmth, which is only capable of a simple wood-burning stove, born in a hospitable, fabulous country.